I was thinking about going to Echo Cliffs next weekend and was curious how the moderate(5.8-10a) routes are. Has anyone been there recently and if so how was it? Any route suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Tyler Smith From Buena Park Joined Feb 22, 2011 16 points
The guillotine(check spelling?) is 10b but not bad at all. It's the only route I've done at echo that has made me get that awesome post-climb satisfaction. Or head over to hueco wall if you want a forearm burn after all the 10s there!
Tyler....Echo Cliffs is an awesome area for moderate sport climbing. Try these: Intellitoys (5.9) voted one of the best routes of 2010 by R&I Casey at The Bat (5.10b) Irish Car Bomb (5.10c) B-Line (510a) ..careful of the sting at the end. Golden Years (5.9) Tea Bag (5.10c) Bushwhacked (5.9) Head wound (5.9) The Serpent (5.10a) Spiderman (5.10a) Lowrider (5.10b) Wonder woman (5.10c) Oolong (510a) Welcome to Echo (5.10a)
The weather is awesome and if you don't object to the 30 min hike, you'll have a great time. Remember the rock at Echo Cliffs isn't granite, so it can be chossy.
Tyler......you might try the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area website regarding camping. There may be camping at Circle X Ranch? There are campsites along PCH (Pacific Coast Hwy) at Leo Carillo State Park near Malibu, but it isn't that close, maybe 8 -10 miles away via Decker Cyn Road.
guillotine is a fun, trad-like climb (if that makes any sense) and i'll give a big +1 for intellitoys, super sustained at the grade, super fun. if you have Louie Anderson's sport climbing in the santa monica's then you will be set. Echo is definitely worth the trip; an additional bonus is that it is quite easy to tell when you are off route as the holds will crumble like chalk in your hands. best, xan
Xan Calonne From Joshua Tree, Ca Joined Mar 25, 2010 19 points