EBGB's 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Dave Houser, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Nick Badyrka, April 1977 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 10, 2002 |
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Chris on EBGB's
Photo by Brent Gonzales
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Description This route had a bit of a reputation back in the day and even now with higher numbers and sticky rubber it still commands respect. Established ground-up by the prolific Dave Houser and a cast of talented locals this thin face route epitomizes the Joshua Tree experience with a funky start leading to thin face and finishing with a memorable runout to the top.
The crux comes at the start in the form of an difficult mantle after which the route heads left around a blunt arete onto an undercut high-angled slab. Tenuous smears and edges past two closely spaced bolts are the crux of this section but steel yourself for the exciting finish with 5.8 smearing 20' past the last bolt. Four stars out of five.
Location On the outer (west) face of the EBGB Block Area.
Protection 5 bolts to a bolted anchor which is located in the center of the block. The rap anchor is on the south face at the lip. All bolts are 3/8".
BETA PHOTO: EBGB Boulder
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photo taken by Thanh Dinh
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BETA PHOTO: EBGB's topo
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EBGBs (circa 1983). Just passing the third bolt, w...
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ebgb's
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the sharp end!
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John rocking the American flag jacket on the sharp...
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Mike Holley Finishing up EBGB's
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 11, 2002
rating: 5.10d
| Around 1986 or so a climber fell off the finishing holds and sheared through the eyehole of the old Houser hanger (homemade soft aluminium) resulting in an extra long fall. Back in the old days you would see these homemade hangers on many classic routes stamped with Dave Houser's intitials (DPH). On certain bolts that saw a lot of falls you would see these hangers with elongated eyes where the force of repeated falls had stretched the metal like taffy! |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 5, 2003
| After a most puzzling start, involving a belly roll, the climb turns into a memorable outing up a huge boulder stacked above the abyss.
For me is was essentially brain exploding smearing on a rippled steep face, with the occasional "whew" when clipping the bolts, of which there are very few.
Don't relax 'till you're standing on the top!
Justifiably, one of the ten 5.10s. Essential exposed face climbing.
The start was way tough. |
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 10, 2003
| just a question.....Why is the one climb called ebgbs it seems like such astrange name? -Steve |
By Brian Reynolds
Feb 10, 2003
| There was a very famous punk club in New York City's East Village called CBGB's around the time this climb was put up -- bands that got there start there included Blondie, the Talking Heads, the Ramones, and the New York Dolls. For that matter, it's still around. I always figured that EBGB's was a play on that ... |
By Randy
Nov 6, 2003
| While the name EBGBs is a pun (a play on the expression Heebee Jeebees), that is NOT the orgin of the name. Interesting story, you see chboi JHAN gosn KFJirjak fdjkp fjoaj dfkjpo fljo motive didn't fit well! |
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2008
| this is a trad climb? o.O |
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 22, 2009
| wasn't this soloed by that guy in return 2 sender? |
By RTM
Mar 23, 2009
| I have pics of Michael Reardon soloing this rig. Yipes!! I was scared on toprope! |
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 11, 2012
| Amazingly Fun Route!! A Demanding and awkward full body mantle, involving not only strength but balance leads to fun thin and balancey face climbing! The Run outs are splendid with bolts right where you need them and devoid where you don't! Certainly an excellent J-Tree .1o face route! |
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