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Be ready for lots of small holds, good luck finding them. Lots of crimpers, broken small cracks and a few small undercircles. Some small loose rock and lichen in a few places. Starts out easy and then bam and stays that way the rest of the route. A few bigger holds near the top.
The route starts in between the arete and main crack (Regular Route) on the face. Rappel off anchors.
6 bolts and 2 bolts with rappel rings for the anchors. Long slings or cordelette helps to extend the anchors.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 13, 2009
I haven't been climbing anything very hard recently so I'm in pretty bad shape, but this route didn't seem anywhere near 5.11 to me. Felt a ton easier than Tough Guy (the other 10d a few routes to the left). If it was you guys that chalked up all the holds real pretty, you missed some good ones right of the third (?) bolt. Maybe that would make it feel more like 5.10?
Fun route, definitely worth climbing. The roof and the part after felt like the crux but it still stays in the 5.9 range after that.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Jul 13, 2009
I have relearned to not always trust the previously chalked holds. I finally figured a good sequence that used some un-chalked holds. Keep up your momentum at the bottom and you can get to a good rest after bolt 4.
|By Tyson Taylor|
Jun 17, 2011
The crux is early on and on par for the grade, but it eases up after. I felt a lose right hand-hold a move or to from the top, though it stayed in place.
|By Brandon Bishoff|
From: Austin, TX
Mar 6, 2012
I don't think I've ever seen more disagreement about the rating of a route, but for what it's worth, I felt like it was a good bit harder than Pissant, the 10b on the northern end of the wall. I couldn't really find any great rests, and the footholds going through the roof were pretty precarious. Clipping the bolt right after the roof without falling off the wall was the crux of the climb for me. I'm glad I managed it too because a fall while clipping there could maybe put you on the ground.
|By Jordan Harmer|
May 3, 2012
Good stuff. It felt like a solid 10d to me, but I was climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Tristan mentioned some holds to the right that I may not have noticed while climbing. I had to hunt around for holds a bit.