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Gong Show Wall
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Wages of Skin 

Eavesdropping 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Andy Selters and Bobby Knight (July '96)
Page Views: 444
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Start the same as Wages of Skin but instead of stepping right, continue up the corner. Then lieback and face climb up some fun flakes, clipping 5 bolts. The final crux section is a series of small roofs near the top that will test your endurance and jamming abilities. However, a solid handjam is never far away, making the climbing easier than it first appears.

3 descent options:
Scramble to the top and walk off to the right.
Rappel to the ground with 2 ropes.
Make 2 single rope rappels using the pitch 1 anchors of Show Me the Monkey.


Protection 

A double set of cams to "3 inches and a single set of nuts. It's a long pitch so keep rope drag in mind and extend those pieces under and through the roofs.



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By Jonathan Howland
Aug 16, 2010

I think the above description fair but I'd give this pitch more plaudits/stars. It's got it all -- steep off the deck, followed by a teaser section of hand-crack and roof to get you primed for the business above, and an interlude of airy bolt-protected face before said action.
This is to say, Wages which I like is quite tidy by comparison.

  • Gear beta spoiler alert *
Rack a few med. nuts and a selection of small to finger sized-cams, but the ammo you need is 2 of each size from red to blue camalot, and a purple and green (C4's) -- these latter for the crux section. Save a blue for the crux too.