Eavesdropping 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Andy Selters and Bobby Knight (July '96) |
| Submitted By: | Bryan G on Jun 24, 2010 |
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Description Start the same as Wages of Skin but instead of stepping right, continue up the corner. Then lieback and face climb up some fun flakes, clipping 5 bolts. The final crux section is a series of small roofs near the top that will test your endurance and jamming abilities. However, a solid handjam is never far away, making the climbing easier than it first appears.
3 descent options:
Scramble to the top and walk off to the right.
Rappel to the ground with 2 ropes.
Make 2 single rope rappels using the pitch 1 anchors of Show Me the Monkey.
Protection A double set of cams to "3 inches and a single set of nuts. It's a long pitch so keep rope drag in mind and extend those pieces under and through the roofs.
| Comments on Eavesdropping |
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By Jonathan Howland
Aug 16, 2010
| I think the above description fair – but I'd give this pitch more plaudits/stars. It's got it all -- steep off the deck, followed by a teaser section of hand-crack and roof to get you primed for the business above, and an interlude of airy bolt-protected face before said action.
This is to say, Wages – which I like – is quite tidy by comparison.
- Gear beta spoiler alert *
Rack a few med. nuts and a selection of small to finger sized-cams, but the ammo you need is 2 of each size from red to blue camalot, and a purple and green (C4's) -- these latter for the crux section. Save a blue for the crux too. |
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