Eavesdown Docks Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: 18 Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 5.10a
The Eavesdown Docks area stretches from a short, south-facing wall that is the right side of an east-facing gully, around the arete defining the end of the gully to a north-facing, overhanging section of stone, followed by lower-angled, taller, north-facing rock until interrupted by a talus slope.
The widest variety of routes at Serenity is located here, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11c.
After following the trail from the paved path and turning right at the large stump you will see before you the gray, smooth-appearing Haven
To reach the main body of routes, turn right on the obvious trail rather than hiking up toward Haven
To reach the gully routes, hike up to Haven
and then turn right and uphill.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Eavesdown Docks
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eavesdown Docks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eavesdown Docks:
Shindig 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Out of Gas 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Browncoat 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Firefly 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Eavesdown Docks
Firefly 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Eavesdown Docks
70m Rope RequiredA steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section). From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top led...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
BETA PHOTO: 22. Bushwhacked 5.9 23. The Companion 5.8
BETA PHOTO: 11 Captain Hammer 5.10d 12 Oh Captain! My Captain!...
BETA PHOTO: 10 Captain Mal 5.11a 11 Captain Hammer 5.10d
BETA PHOTO: 8 Too Pretty to Die 5.10c 9 Damage My Calm 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: 6 Canceled 5.11a 7 Jubal 5.9
By Tyler Slack
From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Sep 1, 2014
FYI - I've been climbing in this area all summer and I'm still coming across holds that break off and other rock fall. Belayers especially would be wise to wear a helmet as this area continues to clean up. As fun as many of the climbs are, the rock fall potential does not deter me from coming. Just a word to the wise.