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Eavesdown Docks

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
Bushwhacked S 
Canceled S 
Captain Hammer S 
Captain Mal S 
Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 
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Eavesdown Docks  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.45095, -111.66614 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,424
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


The Eavesdown Docks area stretches from a short, south-facing wall that is the right side of an east-facing gully, around the arete defining the end of the gully to a north-facing, overhanging section of stone, followed by lower-angled, taller, north-facing rock until interrupted by a talus slope.

The widest variety of routes at Serenity is located here, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11c.

Getting There 

After following the trail from the paved path and turning right at the large stump you will see before you the gray, smooth-appearing Haven wall.

To reach the main body of routes, turn right on the obvious trail rather than hiking up toward Haven.

To reach the gully routes, hike up to Haven and then turn right and uphill.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eavesdown Docks:
The Companion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Out of Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Out to the Black   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bushwhacked   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jubal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browncoat   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Firefly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Captain Hammer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Alliance   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Oh Captain! My Captain!   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Captain Mal   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Captain Tight Pants   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Eavesdown Docks

Featured Route For Eavesdown Docks
Perin Blanchard near the crux on Firefly.  Photo b...

Firefly 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Eavesdown Docks
70m Rope RequiredA steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section). From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top led...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Eavesdown Docks Slideshow Add Photo
18 Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 5.10a
BETA PHOTO: 18 Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 5.10a
8 Too Pretty to Die  5.10c 9 Damage My Calm 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: 8 Too Pretty to Die 5.10c 9 Damage My Calm 5.10c
11 Captain Hammer 5.10d 12 Oh Captain! My Captain!...
BETA PHOTO: 11 Captain Hammer 5.10d 12 Oh Captain! My Captain!...
10 Captain Mal 5.11a 11 Captain Hammer 5.10d
BETA PHOTO: 10 Captain Mal 5.11a 11 Captain Hammer 5.10d
22. Bushwhacked 5.9 23. The Companion 5.8
BETA PHOTO: 22. Bushwhacked 5.9 23. The Companion 5.8

Comments on Eavesdown Docks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler Slack
From: Eagle Mountain, Utah
Sep 1, 2014
FYI - I've been climbing in this area all summer and I'm still coming across holds that break off and other rock fall. Belayers especially would be wise to wear a helmet as this area continues to clean up. As fun as many of the climbs are, the rock fall potential does not deter me from coming. Just a word to the wise.
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