Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  October 2007 Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jamie McNeill on FA of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It....

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Description 

Clever routefinding to circumvent a heinous OW start, a delightful bit of jamming through the crux, and an exhilirating overhang problem on the 2nd pitch.
This route has finally been cleaned up; now it's a classic line.

P1: Climb blocky notch, follow ramp out right, then hand-traverse back left to avoid the OW start (either way is 5.8). Climb the obvious handcrack rising right from the fangish OH to a hanging belay under the roof.

P2: Traverse left until you can reach a small right-facing flake on the lip of the overhang. A scary, committing haul-up gets you over the obstacle. Follow the flake to its top, then climb easy friction to the top of the buttress.

Location 

Toward the left side of the Black Arch Arête, at a small mossy dirt cone leading up to a slanted ledge with an OW crack on its left end. There is a large, ugly "gully" with a few trees growing in it to the right, between this route and The Black Arch Arête.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, a few extra big cams (#3 Camalot sz).

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Above the layback'ed wide crack. Note the pre-pla...