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Fern Point - Party Buttress
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Eat My Dust 
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Eat My Dust 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gary Beil, Greg Flerx, 1992
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 24, 2009
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Description 

Clip the bolt next to the shuts on Exoduster. Make a dyno to 2 good crimps and traverse left out around the roof. Gain a stance and traverse back right to reach the next bolt. A small cam (blue or green alien size) can be placed in the horizontal in the roof to reduce the fall potential before clipping the bolt above the roof. Climb straight up using very small crimps and making good use of an interesting diagonal sloping ledge, very unique climb for the New. This climb is pretty sustained for the grade and the top portion is a bit dirty. It's surprising that this extension doesn't see more traffic given the popularity of Exoduster.


Location 

second pitch of Exoduster


Protection 

4 bolts, shuts



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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 25, 2009

Agreed. As far as I'm concerned, this route IS Exoduster, or Exoduster-enhanced. I mean, it goes to the top of the formation, follows a natural line of travel, and is continuously engaging. What's not to like? The crux after the chains on Exoduster is--I hate to say it--fairly height dependent. If you're short, the moves requires a dyno. The top crux is decidedly technical, and aesthetic.

Certainly deserves more traffic.

By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 5, 2010

Pretty sure there were only 3 bolts and rap rings from the Exoduster belay including the one just left of the belay. Plenty of better climbs to blow your shoulders out on than this, skip the first crux and just traverse left 5.9 to the fun, good and challenging face above.