This climb begins in the gully to the left of the obvious golden face in the middle of the South Face of the dome.
P1. Climb a short pitch up a groove/crack past a bolt to a ledge in an alcove.
P2. A long pitch, so watch the rope drag or you might have to break it up into two. Climb up the awkward crack in the groove. As you near an overhang you have to traverse to the right. The second half of the pitch has a lot of different ways to go. Use the various cracks and knobs to work your way up to a bolted belay (with chains) on a nice foot-ledge.
P3. If you don't like scary friction slab, then this pitch is something of a nightmare. From the belay traverse left and then downclimb a bit. Step across the glassy gold polish and onto the better friction stuff and then smear your way up and left to a foothold. From here I think the original climb continued further left onto the ledge and right facing corner. This way is 5.9R and make sure you solo up a ways before placing anything or you will screw your follower.
Instead of finishing on the original route I got lured into the bolted variation that begins from the good foothold in the middle of the traverse. The fucked up thing about this climb is the bolts are in all the wrong spots. From the good foothold I had to make a 5.9 move and then clip the first bolt from a tenuous stance. Clipping the second bolt is the same scenario. I'm not that short either, about 5'8" with a +2" wingspan. Anyways, I escaped left after the second bolt. Getting to the 3rd bolt looked solid 5.10. After that nonsense, climb up some cracks and ledges to a bolted anchor on a ledge.
P4. An easy pitch up a small right facing corner in the middle of the face. The corner protects with small gear and the climbing is easy. Run up the 3rd class slab and belay ontop of the dome.
Pro to 4"
There is a large, golden, knob covered wall on the South Face. It has a huge, egg-shaped overhang/bulge at the top of it. This climb is on the left side of the golden wall.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Nov 1, 2011
There is a 2 pitch, bolted face climb that begins a little bit to the right of Easy Wind. It starts with some 5.9 slab climbing past the first couple bolts (careful getting to the second), and then cruises up the juggy knobs and patina. It joins Easy Wind at the bolted anchors before the traverse pitch, and can be done as a variation to the first two pitches. It also provides an escape rappel route (2 ropes needed) if you look at the 5.9R traverse and decide to bail.