|h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.
P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).
P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge, to a small offwidth chimney at a pine tree with a rappel station on it.
P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.
Same start as Arrow.
Good protection throughout the route, with the majority being smaller pieces. Gear anchors at each belay. From the very top, rappel back to the GT ledge (60m rope), then walk 80 feet to climber's left (past where you came up) to the bolted rappel over Arrow.
Aug 18, 2007
Love your comment about P3! I was seconding a new leader on the climb a few days ago. I had not done it previously. We had some trouble finding the start to P3 mainly because I couldn't believe what I was looking up at was rated 5.3!
I thought the moves just before and through the chimney/cleft were technically demanding at the 5.5 level as well as pretty awkward.
My leader did the Cold Turkeys variation, staying on the nose until forced left by increased difficult, on P1 and it was good.
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Very fun route for the grade, nicer than some of the 5.5 pitches I've been on at the Gunks. Agree that the final pitch would be a real rude awakening for a 5.3 leader.
|By Jon Ruland|
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 26, 2008
"Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them."
do 5.3 leaders actually exist?
|By John Peterson|
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
There's plenty of 5.3 leaders at the Gunks! It's probably the only climbing area where anyone would argue about whether a route is 5.3 or 5.4.
One thing about the last pitch of Easy V is that it scares seconds as well as leaders. Even though the crux is inside a chimney with almost no exposure it's scary. I've seen a number of seconds turn into screaming, blubbering, moaning wrecks there after having no problem with the first pitch. The move is only 5.3 but it's not a normal "reach up for the next hold" sort of place.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009
This is a great climb. P1 is great for new leaders, there are placements everywhere. P3 is interesting, but not hard. I solid 5.3 leader would have no problem with P3. I thought this was a delightful climb from bottom to top. Just a mellow corner up to an interesting 3rd pitch.
|By Robbie Flick|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
As a beginner trad leader, I absolutely loved this route. Well within my ability with many opportunities to practice placing pro. Long, easy, fun, and well-protected. Unlike many other beginner routes, this one is still loads of fun despite the grade. A great introduction to leading at the Gunks.
Sep 6, 2010
RF - Any specific comments regarding the third pitch? Thanks
|By Alicia Sokolowski|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 16, 2010
I thought this climb was super easy. I am a complete beginner (First year climbing) and to me, P3 was actually easier than P1. However, when I was up there, we had real trouble finding the start. What I think is that the actual P3 (what seems to match the written description in the gray Dick) looks less traveled (not quite as clean) than a variation which appears to match the photo in the gray Dick. The two starts are only about eight feet apart, and we went with the one on the left. It was a cakewalk. The one on the right was clean as a whistle, so it sees a lot of traffic, but it seems much harder looking up from the bottom.
Apr 30, 2011
Did this one today- P1 was wet but otherwise has nice climbing; seems if you stay left there's better pro. P3 is definitely a good way to get a beginning leader to soil his pants! I totally agree with the original description that 5.3 "is a frikken joke" (and my old copy of Swain calls it a "5.2+"!). The crux move out of the chimney felt harder than any 5.4 I've done at the Gunks, harder than Horseman or Sixish for that matter. Overall has nice climbing, good exposure on P3, and clean rock.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Although I really liked P3, the moves are closer to 5.6 than 5.3
I was with a returning-to-leading climber and she bailed, which meant I had to finish the pitch. Rock climbing is risky and thank god for mountain project for setting the record straight.
Jun 13, 2012
P1 is about the nicest 5.2 in the Gunks (without hiking all the way out to Casa Emilio, which lots of people feel is harder than 5.2). And with a nice rappel just a few feet to the left of the top of the pitch. It's almost too bad we can't have a separate page on MountainProject just for P1, since P3 is completely different.
Jul 30, 2014
Just did this today (7/29/14) as my first Trad lead. I wanted to post to give people a heads up that the pine tree used for rapping off of the top of the last pitch looks like it got hit by lightning and is only partially alive. I used it but it may be good to continue up to the very top (an extra 15 ft of easy climbing) and use one of the other rappels (I think there is at least one tree there that takes you back to GT on the Arrow wall).
But about the climb. First pitch was a great first lead. It was easy enough that there really isn't any fall risk, and I could place gear with really nice footholds on both feet and usually with two hands free. Frankly though I thought the climbing in P3 was way more straightforward (but physically harder) than P1, and the placements also more straightforward. The crux here everyone is talking about on P3 was probably the most awkward move I've ever done and was hard for the grade. However, there are several very nice gear placements right at the crux, so I never felt unsafe.
|By David Stowe|
Jul 31, 2014
Aemerick congrats on your first lead. You can indeed very easily get to the bolted rap station at the top of Arrow if you climb Easy V to the top of the cliff. Two raps with a single and one rap with doubles.