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Lower Peanuts
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Easy Off 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: M. Brooks, 1981
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 15, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This short and somewhat grungy pitch looks unattractive, but has a few cool moves and a stumper crux. It is certainly no destination, but if you like doing committing thoughtful moves, it is worthy of the bother. The route generally is in the shade

I cleaned the route well in July of 2001, and it may remain clean for a while if it gets a little traffic.

Easy Off ascends the northern-most section of Lower Peanuts wall, going up the wall at some fixed slings (bolt and pin?). The original 5.9 grade is a sandbag and does not reflect the difficulty of the boulder problem required to get onto the first good holds of the route. This may range from 5.10a to 5.10d, depending on your height. At 5'11" it felt like 5.10c.

Climb up and left on a thin and insecure flake to reach a ledge, a short distance from the ground. These first few moves are hard and are not protected. The slab below might twist an ankle badly, so ask your belayer to spot you. Once on the small ledge, move left to it's edge, clipping the fixed pro and placing a piece if it makes you feel better.

From there, move up and then up and right to reach the slabs above and belay.

To descend, walk off left (northeast) for 30 seconds to reach the cliff base.


Protection 

Despite apparently having had a bolt retro-added, this climb could still produce a fall resulting in some nasty trists or scrapes. You might not clip anything but fixed gear, but placing your own would be a good option to have, including to make a belay, so I have listed this route as trad.



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By Umph!
Jul 28, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Warning! BETA!
First, yes, it is height-dependent, However, I don't agree with most of the remaining description, unless, I am at a different climb that is certainly the MOST northeastern route on this lower wall. There are 2 bolts (older aluminum hangers)and one pin at the [mid-ledge]. Start up the 5.0 ramp (right-angling) to the first hanger, clip it and move left on thin hands but a reasonable foot (the only obvious foot down fairly low); match feet and move left to the edge of a small ledge, then bump up to a big, crisp hold (full-body hang on the left hand until the right matches). Then it's an easy up to the big ledge and the pin clip - mounting the big ledge is easy with a left sidepull. Now comes the face, and a fall could damage an ankle (due to the big ledge). Clip the hanger and pull some fairly crimpy edges/ledges, then repeat and you're up. Short but fun - and I agree, it's not a destination climb but worthy of a climb when at [Lower Peanuts]. I hope I didn't ruin [anyone's] climb with too much beta, but the description didn't seem to fit, and I'm still wondering. . . is this the same climb?

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2005

Same climb, but you started to the right of where I did. I came in more from below the fat flake/ledge. I guess I didn't realize at the time that there even was a first bolt over there that was supposed to be a part of the route and more or less bouldered up to the flake, which is why I only described the second bolt. The line was pretty natural the way I did it. Beginning was 5.10 not 5.0 though. Same end result from a different start.

By Umph!
Jul 31, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Ooh balzy, I know what you mean now - that would be a nice bouldery, ankle-twisting start - will try it next time.