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Easy Looking Glass climbs
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By Jacob Robbins
Jan 8, 2013
Is there any climbs at looking glass or rumbling bald that can be led with only a set of wired nuts and a pink TCU?

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jan 8, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.
Definitely not. Nuts are probably the least important piece of gear at LG. Only a few routes actually require them. I am also assuming you mean pink tri-cam and not TCU. There is no pink TCU that I am aware of, unless this is some ancient design. You could however lead most of the routes at the Nose with just a single set of tri-cams, especially if you carry some of the larger ones up to white or green. There are no sport routes at LG and none that can be top-roped with the gear you listed. Your rack is not ready to be led on at most places in this state. If your looking to go cheap, acquire some tri-cams and maybe a few cams, especially in the smaller sizes since tri-cams cannot protect finger sizes and smaller.

There are a few beginner places in N.C. that can be sport climbed. A few places exist very close to LG. You should check out Mike Reardon's guide to Cedar Rock and satellite areas.

I would also suggest hiring a guide service or getting a mentor before you jump into trad with no experience. The trad in N.C. and many other places with granite style faces is often not bolted when the climbing is 5.6 or below and no natural gear is available. It is very easy to make mistakes and not even realize it due to inexperience. A local guide/mentor can also answer a lot of the gear questions and suggest good places to learn.

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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Jan 9, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background
Well, any climb could be done with a hand full of nuts and a TCU if you were skilled enough...but if you have to ask...probably not.
BTW, What's a pink TCU?

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By AK123
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 13, 2013
North Buttress Mt. Hunter, AK
Jacob Robbins wrote:
Is there any climbs at looking glass or rumbling bald that can be led with only a set of wired nuts and a pink TCU?


If you can get your hands on a green and white TCU you should be set

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jan 13, 2013
El Chorro
I think there are probably a lot of routes that could be lead on all passive gear, but you'd need another set of stoppers (maybe offsets) and more tri-cams. Now that I think about it you could lead anything at Cereal Buttress with a load of tri-cams, stoppers and a few big hexes. But you'd need to be on your A game placing the stuff or it could get dangerous pretty fast.

But there are definitely routes on the south side of LG that would go on all passive gear and the Nose routes would go on all tricams if you had enough and the right sizes.

Like someone else said, it's not a good sign that you have to ask.

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By Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 13, 2013
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theater Of Pain " 5.13b Cooks Wall, NC
Onsight... Onsight... Onsight... My " pink tcu " is a total ripper piece!

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By Chuck Parks
From Atlanta, GA
Jan 13, 2013
Chuck in the final mellow section of Te Dum at the Near Trapps.
Jacob Robbins wrote:
Is there any climbs at looking glass or rumbling bald that can be led with only a set of wired nuts and a pink TCU?


I think the "Rat's Ass Challenge" has just been born.

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jan 14, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.
Chuck Parks wrote:
I think the "Rat's Ass Challenge" has just been born.


Good luck setting up P1 belays on just nuts.

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