By John P. Nov 16, 2010
| I'm just getting into ice climbing and was wondering what would be a good place to go in northern Utah? Preferably somewhere I can top rope as I don't have any ice pro. Thanks. |  FLAG |
By Allen Sanderson Nov 18, 2010
| When you say northern Utah could you be more specific. Ya taking Logan, Ogden, Salt Lake, or Provo? All are in the northern part of the state. Many set up top ropes on the first pitch of Stairway - but that takes pro. Actually most take pro for belays as while some routes have fixed anchors ya gotta climb up to them. |  FLAG |
By Brian in SLC From Salt Lake City, UT Nov 18, 2010
| John P. wrote: Preferably somewhere I can top rope as I don't have any ice pro. You can kinda fish around in the route database for options. Hanging Slab Gully is doable. Nicely bolted anchor. Battle Creek might be ok, but, it can be fickle, conditions wise, and I wouldn't want to misjudge as the flow is fairly high, and, might be easy to get hit by falling ice. Also, sees a fair amount of traffic when its in, but, no where near the amount that the lower apron on Stairway sees. Take care TRin' the first pitch of anything that has pitches above. Can't really expect to tie up a multi pitch ice climb that way, and, folks do knock tons of stuff down. Stay out of the bomb zone. Better is to find someone who has gear and partner up. Plenty of folks look for ice partners. Cheers. |  FLAG |
By David Brown From Boulder, CO Nov 18, 2010
| There used to be some ice in Logan Canyon, fed by a leaking aqueduct. It was perhaps 30 to 40 feet high, WI2 or 3. I don't know if it still forms; I haven't been there for twenty years. The stuff was definitely doable on a top rope, and if I remember correctly there was some fixed gear at the top. Look near the mouth of the canyon, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mile in, on the north. Try calling the Trailhead in Logan for info. |  FLAG |
By John P. Nov 19, 2010
| Thanks for the feedback. I'm mainly looking for ice in the area of SLC and north. I do have gear to build anchors and am an experienced rock climber. I had a chance to pick up some inexpensive ice tools and crampons from a friend so I thought I would give it a go. Any advice while I'm starting out? Thanks in advance! |  FLAG |
By builttospill Nov 28, 2010
| Has something changed since last year re: the apron on Stairway? If not, you can SOMETIMES toprope there without ice-specific gear. It depends on whether the anchors are buried or not. Ideally, coming equipped with a few screws is best, to guarantee that you get to climb. Finding the anchors can be difficult if its your first time there also. And, as always, exercise some courtesy with regard to others wanting to climb in the same area and those looking to climb through to the upper pitches (and caution, because stuff does come down from the upper pitches at times). It may be a bit far south for your liking though. |  FLAG |
|