Easy Hard 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Buddy Price, K. Savoy - 1973 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007 |
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Michael does the big stem on Easy Hard.
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Description More proof that there's nothing boring about easy/moderate climbs at Moore's, Easy Hard makes a nice warm-up at the start of the day or a good wind-down after a hard day of climbing. NOTE: despite the 5.5 rating, this is probably not a good choice for a first trad lead.
Follow a crack system up to face climbing and a small overlap; move right and up the face (crux), then continue past a tree ledge to a big tree in a cave-like nook.
Location Starts about 20' left of Head Jam. Rap from the slung tree at the top.
Protection Cams and passive pro in the small to medium range; build a gear anchor and/or sling the big tree.
BETA PHOTO: Easy hard and Head Jam Rappel Station
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Easy Hard
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By Allen Freeman
Jun 2, 2008
| Fun route, definitely not suggested for a 1st lead, routefinding to the ledge above headjam isn't exactly intuitive and the slopery business at the top is kind of freaky. |
By Matt Westlake
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.5
| Near the top, below the roof I went left instead of right today for a nice variant. Couple of exposed moves that dodge the slopey top out and step out over space a bit. A bit harder (6+/7ish) but fun. Protection was a bit interesting but I think it was adequate. |
By S. Fischer
May 14, 2012
| I missed the traverse right... when I got to the roof and looked right, the traverse didn't look very protectable on the way over to the head jam crack system. I opted to pull the roof, which can be spicy if you're looking for 5.5 or 5.6 climbing. I ended up climbing straight up to another anchor at the top, rapping down to the head-jam ledge and rapping again from there. Certainly not an intuitive traverse. |
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