Easy Corner 5.5
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BETA PHOTO: Rappeling from the "Tennsih" anchors after doing t...
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Description This route is on the East side of the Lower Breadloaves AKA Provo Wall. Although you can park at the West side of the Breadloaves parking lot and hike around, it is easier to park near the campsite, cross the road, and hike up the hill. This route is in a corner with a trough and has an obvious bulge you must climb around about 3/4 the way up. This climb starts out with a thin hand crack. Climb up around a bulge and then move out onto a pocketed face of easy climbing. Rappel by scrambling down to the right and using Something Sporting anchors.
Protection Standard Rack
Brian leading the beginning corner of Easy Corner@...
| Still in the corner, fun route not to be missed!
| A view down Easy Corner, as Ray follows.
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By kBobby From: Spokane, WA Jun 12, 2005
| This is a fun route. However, if you are a beginning leader, I would recommend you do something else. There isn't a lot of pro up the trough. |
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jul 20, 2006 rating: 5.6
| Fantastic route with a wide variety of movement. However, the beginning 30-40 feet ain't no 5.5. I'm not saying it's that hard, just not 5.5 and the gear is somewhat small and sparse so a highly recommended climb for trad climbers but not a good first trad lead IMHO. This route does not have it's own anchors, we can downclimb a crack (pretty easy but be alert) to the anchors of the route "Tennish Anyone?". We did a double rope rappel but I think a 60m rope might BARELY make it? Enjoy |
By MarkGriffin From: Goretex-Vortex, CO Sep 17, 2007
| Very fun. I thought the pro was plentiful, maybe even abundant. You can sew this up if you want. You have your choice of jams, stems, face holds, etc, makes this a really fun varied route. The parking is actually at site #57 but there are also a couple of pullouts nearby. |
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Jul 11, 2008
| I'd have to agree with Bobby and 46 - Not 5.5 and not a good beginner lead. The bottom trough/corner was not all that easy (though it was very good climbing) and even if the pro was adequate, I didn't see a way to sew it up. Good Times on Window Rock, rated 5.6, was MUCH easier. |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Jun 27, 2010
| wow, a sandbag 5.5! All ye new leaders, this is not 5.5. I would call the trough a sneaky 5.6. Great climb though. To get off use the second set of anchors east of the climb. Much easier stance than "tennish" and a 60 meter makes makes the ground by about 8 ft. Some folks may still wish a belay down to this anchor. |
By zoso Sep 25, 2011 rating: 5.7
| There's plenty of gear the whole way on this. Good thing for the 1st 50ft or so as I thought it was 5.7ish. Build an anchor up top then walk to chains left of Finer Niner. |
By dave bingham Oct 10, 2011
| Thanks for the rating corrections. I'll make sure to change for the new guide. |
By zoso Oct 11, 2011 rating: 5.7
| New guide you say??!! I'm panting. When? |
By Ryan Hamilton From: Orem Jun 19, 2012 rating: 5.7
| The trough section, first 25 ft. or so, is 5.7+ for sure. The finish is solid 5.5, great holds. If you have a variety of pro there are plenty of places to use it in the trough section. Found this fairly easy to protect. |
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