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 ADVANCED
Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy Corner T 
Finer Niner S 
Forgotten Trails S 
Humble's Tumble T 
Provo S 
Psycho Driller S 
Riding on an Incline S 
Sabbatical T,S 
Tennish Anyone? T,S 
Triple Roofs T 
White Flake T 

Easy Corner 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Lowe
Page Views: 2,332
Submitted By: Jason Billings on Jun 10, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Still in the corner, fun route not to be missed!

Description 

This route is on the East side of the Lower Breadloaves AKA Provo Wall. Although you can park at the West side of the Breadloaves parking lot and hike around, it is easier to park near the campsite, cross the road, and hike up the hill. This route is in a corner with a trough and has an obvious bulge you must climb around about 3/4 the way up.

This climb starts out with a thin hand crack. Climb up around a bulge and then move out onto a pocketed face of easy climbing. Rappel by scrambling down to the right and using Something Sporting anchors.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Easy Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rappeling from the "Tennsih" anchors after doing the Easy Corner which is the obvious medium sized corner to my right in the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Rappeling from the "Tennsih" anchors aft...
Brian leading the beginning corner of Easy Corner; small but decent gear so just be careful!  5.5, Not.
Brian leading the beginning corner of Easy Corner;...
A view down Easy Corner, as Ray follows.
A view down Easy Corner, as Ray follows.

Comments on Easy Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 12, 2005

This is a fun route. However, if you are a beginning leader, I would recommend you do something else. There isn't a lot of pro up the trough.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fantastic route with a wide variety of movement. However, the beginning 30-40 feet ain't no 5.5. I'm not saying it's that hard, just not 5.5 and the gear is somewhat small and sparse so a highly recommended climb for trad climbers but not a good first trad lead IMHO. This route does not have it's own anchors, we can downclimb a crack (pretty easy but be alert) to the anchors of the route "Tennish Anyone?". We did a double rope rappel but I think a 60m rope might BARELY make it? Enjoy
By MarkGriffin
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
Sep 17, 2007

Very fun. I thought the pro was plentiful, maybe even abundant. You can sew this up if you want. You have your choice of jams, stems, face holds, etc, makes this a really fun varied route. The parking is actually at site #57 but there are also a couple of pullouts nearby.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 11, 2008

I'd have to agree with Bobby and 46 - Not 5.5 and not a good beginner lead. The bottom trough/corner was not all that easy (though it was very good climbing) and even if the pro was adequate, I didn't see a way to sew it up.
Good Times on Window Rock, rated 5.6, was MUCH easier.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2010

wow, a sandbag 5.5! All ye new leaders, this is not 5.5. I would call the trough a sneaky 5.6. Great climb though. To get off use the second set of anchors east of the climb. Much easier stance than "tennish" and a 60 meter makes makes the ground by about 8 ft. Some folks may still wish a belay down to this anchor.
By zoso
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There's plenty of gear the whole way on this. Good thing for the 1st 50ft or so as I thought it was 5.7ish. Build an anchor up top then walk to chains left of Finer Niner.
By dave bingham
Oct 10, 2011

Thanks for the rating corrections. I'll make sure to change for the new guide.
By Ryan Hamilton
From: Orem
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The trough section, first 25 ft. or so, is 5.7+ for sure. The finish is solid 5.5, great holds. If you have a variety of pro there are plenty of places to use it in the trough section. Found this fairly easy to protect.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Aug 1, 2013

A really fun climb that requires a good mix of techniques. Protection was creative at times, but adequate - I would suggest having a healthy variety of pieces. While I usually agree with most City ratings, this one is certainly harder than any other 5.5 in the area.
By idahomike
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super fun climb, but definitely NOT 5.5. I would call it a solid 5.7 for sure. Top half is easy. I thought it took pro just fine. There is now a fixed piece of pro as my follower couldn't remove a 1.5 friend from the middle section...it's yours if you can get it out!