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Easy Bake Alcove

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Lost in Tuff S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

Easy Bake Alcove 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Location: 35.82217, -106.54039 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,647
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Easy Bake Alcove topo

Description 

Facing due south, sheltered from the wind and up above the river, the Easy Bake Alcove gets its name from the Easy-Bake Oven as the area tends to bake even on the coldest winter days. The area is definitely best as a winter crag but fall and spring are reasonable especially if the day is cloudy.
You'll likely be climbing t-shirts on sunny, calm winter days even if the temperature at the parking area is well below freezing.


Getting There 

Hike along the East Fork of the Jemez River from the main Las Conchas parking lot for about 15 minutes (roughly a mile). You'll cross the river three times on good bridges. After the third crossing, keep hiking past The Sponge. Just beyond The Hidden Tower but before the beautiful Leaning Tower is a big corner/alcove up above the river. This is the Easy Bake Alcove.


Climbing Season


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Easy Bake Alcove:
Crucial Taunt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Babies in the House   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
Lightbulb Not Included   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
Stray Capacitance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   
The Seashells Shall Shine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Lost in Tuff   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Autumnal Bliss   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Schwing!   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Easy Bake Alcove

Featured Route For Easy Bake Alcove
Crimping hard on "the Piranha" hold on the lower crux.  Heath Bailey photo. February 2014.

The Color of Optimism 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Easy Bake Alcove
Wear your optimistic-colored clothing for this one. For me that's orange. Follow a line of three-finger pockets up to a nice flake by the second bolt. Climb hard moves well out left via the "piranha" hold to a big hole and the third clip. Make a big span move to a sharp-edged hold out up and right, then punch it up to a nice dish and the fourth bolt. Engaging, lower-angle climbing goes up and then out right to the arÍte. Slap up the edge of the arÍte and face enjoying fine position to the anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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By Karl Kiser
Apr 14, 2014

The crag is a good addition to the area. Thanks for the FAs!