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Castle Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Tower Crack T 
Damsel in Distress T 
Easy As Your Best Friends Sister T 
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend S 
Hard As Your Husband T 
Trebuchet T 

Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brad Singer & Dave LePere, October 2001
Page Views: 1,517
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Christian Sweetsheppard rappelling after finishing...

Description 

Climb to the top of a block and make a few easy moves to reach the first bolt then head up the slab veering slightly right to the base of a headwall. Pull over the steep section on hollow jugs and then wander up the highly featured slabby face to anchors on a ledge.

Location 

20' left of Black Tower Crack at a slabby portion of rock.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Black Tower Crack)


Photos of Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend (5.5), Castle Ro...
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend (5.5), Castle Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Parker Fagrelius leading.
Parker Fagrelius leading.
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the East Face of Castle Rock

Comments on Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend Add Comment
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not certain what BGraham's issue was with "Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend," but we thought this was a very clean, enjoyable route with lots of interesting features. The climb begins with an easy, well protected slab to a steep and thought provoking bulge and finishes with another fun and easy slab to the anchors. Yes, the nut on the left anchor bolt is loose, but a simple tweak with a small wrench solved that issue. Great area, hadn't climbed here in 26 years, but the new routes were appreciated.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A good intro for someone just getting into leading - but be sure to know how to safely set up a rappel. The third bolt is a tad goofy in its placement, as it acts like a cantilever which makes it a bit of a stress riser if it's loaded.
By Mary Moser
Jul 23, 2011

I agree with the comment about the 3rd bolt placement. I slung a horn above it just as a back-up. This is a very fun route with some good exposure for its grade.
By Rebecca Lyons
Sep 17, 2012

Does anyone know anything about the variation to the left of this route? Also a bolted line with a truly awkwatd start. An little spicier than a 5.5 I'd say.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 9, 2012

The variation to the left sounds like "Damsel in Distress" (5.9).

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