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easy aid suggestions at looking glass
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By photocodo
From Hendersonville, NC
Dec 12, 2013
The "crack"

I have a few pitches of aid under my belt and would like to get some more. I am planning on getting out in the next few days or week and would like some suggestions. I am looking for some C1 or C2 pitches that have bolted anchors for an easy rap/bail. I am comfortable and proficient with multi-pitch (most of mine happens at the glass) and trad but just need to log more pitches with aid to become comfortable with the movements. My thought is to go over to glass managerie because it looks like the first few pitches are C1-C2 and all bolted anchors. What other routes do you guys recommend my partner and I getting on?

Also, if anyone wants to get out let me know. I have doubles from micro to BD#3, two sets of nuts, a few offset cams, two ropes, aiders, various hooks and beaks. Working on getting a static line and a set of ascenders.

Thanks for any advice and if anyone wants to get out there let me know.

photocodo


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Dec 12, 2013
Edge of a Dream

The first pitch of Invisible Airwaves can be pretty good for practice. You would probably have to free climb through the crux at the bottom, then establish yourself in the corner. It' s good because you can use some really bomber gear, so it's safe, but you also have to plug some really small stuff towards the top (I plugged several of the smallest C3's, including the 000). It's also a really popular free climb too, which I would also highly recommend. There is a direct start strait up the corner but I remember it being a little more aid intensive, requiring more that just small cams.

Pulling the crux move (free) at the bottom is more blood pumping than difficult, you just have to really commit to pulling across the face. There is a cam placement to protect the pull across move but I didn't place one because the big block above was pretty precarious. You'll see. You could probably sky hook that move on those little crimps.

Plus, you get to hang out on the coolest belay ledge in North Carolina. Going on a cold rainy day might be a good idea. Maybe the crowds won't be a big and you'll stay dry for sure. Bring a beer or two for the big ledge.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Dec 13, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

at the glass and out of the way...

P1 dum dee dum dum would be pretty straight forward

P1 of Electric Kool Aid -- bail off one of the four bolts or take it to the anchor is very very thin on a mix of beaks, micro's, and a purple tcu

Invisible Airways is a great climb - difficult to do without nailing but possible -- big fall potential if you blow the beaks before the first bolt but with a belayer you shouldn't deck (solo - different story) (referring to P2)

you could aid the seal i suppose or cornflake too if its quiet or rainy

Menagerie obviously

There is a bunch of choss at rumbling bald's cereal buttress right off cornflake that you can practice aid on - no fixed anchors but you can find some dead trees to rap off


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By Brian Payst
Jan 7, 2014
grayson highlands

Cornflake crack aids well and the first 2 pitches of GM are easy to do and then rap to the ground. Do the upper, alternate second pitch of GM, not the traverse from the P1 belay. It's a fun pitch with some high stepping and good gear placements.

Harpoon at Ship Rock is also a really good aid practice route. Kind of cold up there at the moment, but when conditions are better.


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By michael s...
From Asheville, NC
Feb 9, 2014
Me

rock_fencer wrote:
Invisible Airways is a great climb - difficult to do without nailing but possible


This is dubious advice.

I was just up there today without a hammer. Barely made it to the first bolt on the second pitch, high-stepped and reached for a bashie, which came out immediately into my hand, and then bailed. I definitely would not recommend the second pitch to someone who is learning how to aid, especially clean aid.

I would also love to hear about someone doing this pitch clean.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 9, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

michael s... wrote:
I would also love to hear about someone doing this pitch clean.


What do you want to know? I did it clean as my third aid route ever - it was scary - i think aid is scary regardless of the difficulty.

heres a link to some pictures from our climb. All the tomahawks were placed by hand sans any hammering - dont own one.

Invisible Airways Clean

The state of the bashies fluctuates over time -- when i did it none of them had any wires - just rusted out heads


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Feb 9, 2014
Edge of a Dream

My buddies and I had a similar experience on the second pitch while tying to aid it clean. It's definitely been done clean before. It's been aided clean using only cams, stoppers and cam hooks. This is definitely NOT recommended though.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 9, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Jonathan Dull wrote:
My buddies and I had a similar experience on the second pitch while tying to aid it clean. It's definitely been done clean before. It's been aided clean using only cams, stoppers and cam hooks. This is definitely NOT recommended though.



It is recommended and the way it should be done in the modern era -- nailing is still acceptable but going by the wayside when it comes to IA


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Feb 9, 2014
Edge of a Dream

rock_fencer wrote:
Clean]]https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103153556913806460031/albums/5472264710323160945?authkey=CKv9ipy98pnN5wE


Cool photos man!


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Feb 9, 2014
Edge of a Dream

rock_fencer wrote:
It is recommended and the way it should be done in the modern era -- nailing is still acceptable but going by the wayside when it comes to IA


I agree. Hand placing peckers it totally the way to go. I was referring to using ONLY cam hooks while on route. It's probably not the best way to approach this route, especially if you've never really aided before.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Feb 9, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Jonathan Dull wrote:
I agree. Hand placing peckers it totally the way to go. I was referring to using ONLY cam hooks while on route. It's probably not the best way to approach this route, especially if you've never really aided before.


Ah yea, too thin for cam hooks all the way if i recall correctly -- gotta excuse the clusterf#$% of an anchor i built for the rope swing - i wanted to be super super safe and there were sooo many bolts


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By michael s...
From Asheville, NC
Feb 9, 2014
Me

nice send there bro. the top section gets pretty heinous.


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By trad4eva
Feb 10, 2014

Those pictures are awesome!


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