Hey all,

I am going to be in Wallingford for a few days helping my bro redo his roof and might have a day to climb early next week. What would be the place to go near Wallingford, and what routes are must do's in the area? Also, are there any bouldering spots in case I am flying solo?

Thanks,
Jeff

Hi Jeff,
Ragged Mtn is the main area.
www.raggedmtn.org

What grade do you climb? CT is all Trad, but you can toprope almost anything, but you need gear to do so.

Sleeping Giant has great routes and Pinnacle and East Peak are also very good.

Tons of great routes.

Can't help you with the bouldering info.

Hey,

I tend to lead up to 5.11ish trad, but will probably be climbing with someone who will top out about 5.9, so unless he doesn't mind just belaying we will probably stay in that range.

I am driving out from Minnesota and I will have a full rack with me so gear isn't a problem.

Thanks for any route suggestions that you have.

Jeff

Jeff,
Here are just a few ideas. You may want the Falcon Guide to CT to find these climbs and for parking info.
These are great routes. Also, many CT climbs have inverted crack systems: They start very wide and taper towards the top. So on a 100' pitch it is very common to need wide pro, say 3 to 4 camalot, down to tiny wires. There are many, many more routes.

Ragged Mtn:
5. 6-5.7 Wet Wall, Cary Corner
5.8, Vector, Bushy Groove, Weissner crack
5.9 YMC, Unconquorable Crack
5.11 Subline

East Peak
5.5 Rappel Groove
5.7 Rat Crack
5.8 Black Corner,
5.9 Reflection of Fall, Thors Hammer, grey corner
5.10 Cat Crack, Squirrel cage, w/sickle variation
5.11 Dol Goldur

Sleeping Giant
5.6 Weissners Rib
5.9 Yvette, Frenchmans Cap R
5.10 Rhadamanthus PG/R
5.11/12 Defender

Let me know if you need more info.