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By N. Pyle
From Newark, DE
May 1, 2008
First pitch of High Exposure.

What is the rule/guideline for paying at the gunks? Don't they ask $15 dollars a day for climbers. I understand that the money goes to support the park, but that price gets kind of high after a few days of climbing. Also, is Camp Slime free?

By Andy Choens
From Albany, NY
May 1, 2008
Me!

The daily fee is $15/day. You can become a member of the Preserve for $85 for one year. As I recall there are discounts for students (not sure how much.)

"Camp Slime" Is free for Preservce Members and people with Day Passes.

Farther away from the cliff you'll find the Multi-(Ab)Use areas. They are free for everyone and administered by the state, but there's a time limit to how long you can camp there. I don't recall how many consecutive nights you can camp for at the Multi-Use areas. I'm sure someone will post this, or look through the forums, other people have mentioned this limit. When I had to camp at the Gunks I tended to prefer Camp Slime, but that's a personal preference. I find it's a little quieter and the name isn't really an accurate description these days. It fills up fast during the summer though. But so do the other areas.

As for paying the day use fee - You should pay it. The Gunks are owned by a Non-Profit organization called the Mohonk Preserve. They grant us access to their wonderful (kick-ass) cliff. It's private property and they don't have to let us climb there. These fees help support the organization and provide amenities like the toilets and roads you will use while you are on the Preserve's land. This stuff ain't free to maintain. Finally, the Rangers are great people and they _do_ aid climbers in distress. In emergencies, they will call for EMS and organize the litter carry-out, etc.

Yes, it is expensive and I completely understand why climbers resent the fees. But, its their land and they pay for things you _will_ use while you are there and a for a few services I hope you never need.

People do skip out on the fees though. If you ask around people will tell you the best ways to do so but I'm not going to post that little piece of local beta onto the Internet because I truly believe the cost is worth it.

Note: The Gunks are my "home" crag.

By Brian
From Wakefield, RI
May 1, 2008
Photo Op on CCK

I used to go out of my way to find a ranger to pay the fee when it was $5. Since then it has crept up to $15. It cost the same to go to most rock gyms (outside NYC that is). The Mohonk Preserve claims on their web site over 150,000 visitors.
http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?interns
Even if only one quarter of them are climbers (conservative estimate) that is 37,500 climbers per year at $15 per head or $562,500 and $9 for non-climbers that is another million bucks. The Preserve is suppose to be a non-profit organization. So if they are raking in $1.5 million a year somebody is making money.

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
May 1, 2008

WHOA!!!!!!!!!!!!! I haven't climbed there in about 8 years. I left just after they built the visitors center & closed the road just before the hairpin turn; you used to be able to camp there for free. You also used to be able to park all along the road but I know that has stopped. During the summer we used to get up there by 6am. (you had your choice of climbs @ that time) There wasn't anyone to collect $ some of the time we paid on the way out & some of the time we didn't. Back then it was $5 during the weekday & $7 on the weekend. I can't believe how expensive it has gotten. It was REALLY REALLY crowded when i was climbing there in the 90's i can't imagine what it is like now especially since (I think) you can't get in till 8am? SOunds more like a climbing gym. BUT it is classic!! If you have never climbed there it's a MUST!
Had some great times there climbing & camping out. Be sure to stop by Rock & Snow. I haven't spoken to him in years (don't know if he is still there) but Dick Williams (a Vulgarian) is a riot to talk to!

By Andy Choens
From Albany, NY
May 2, 2008
Me!

You can go into the Preserve as early as you can stand to be there.

By Tico
May 2, 2008

Brian wrote:
I used to go out of my way to find a ranger to pay the fee when it was $5. Since then it has crept up to $15. It cost the same to go to most rock gyms (outside NYC that is). The Mohonk Preserve claims on their web site over 150,000 visitors. http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?interns Even if only one quarter of them are climbers (conservative estimate) that is 37,500 climbers per year at $15 per head or $562,500 and $9 for non-climbers that is another million bucks. The Preserve is suppose to be a non-profit organization. So if they are raking in $1.5 million a year somebody is making money.



Nobody's making money, most of the board are volunteers, as are much of the staff. 1.5 million dollars a year is not a lot of cash to manage 7K+ acres and like a hundred miles of trail. $85 a year isn't much money to support the preserve.

I lived in Gardiner for years, and never found it worthwhile to not pay the fee.

By tradryan
May 2, 2008

Harold Lampasso wrote:
you used to be able to camp there for free. You also used to be able to park all along the road but I know that has stopped. During the summer we used to get up there by 6am. (you had your choice of climbs @ that time) There wasn't anyone to collect $ some of the time we paid on the way out & some of the time we didn't. Back then it was $5 during the weekday & $7 on the weekend. I can't believe how expensive it has gotten. It was REALLY REALLY crowded when i was climbing there in the 90's i can't imagine what it is like now especially since (I think) you can't get in till 8am? SOunds more like a climbing gym. BUT it is classic!! If you have never climbed there it's a MUST! Had some great times there climbing & camping out. Be sure to stop by Rock & Snow. I haven't spoken to him in years (don't know if he is still there) but Dick Williams (a Vulgarian) is a riot to talk to!


The camping is still free, you can enter the preserve before 8 AM, there is plenty of parking, if it's crowded then you've made the mistake of going to one of the crowded areas, and if anyone else on this thread compares the gunks to a climbing gym I'm going to stick a fork in my eye.
R

$15/day is a bit steep, but the mohonk preserve is an exceptional institute.

By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
May 2, 2008
Me, climbing Skink, contemplating the crux<br />Peterskill, the Gunks, NY<br />Photo by Beau Johnson

Brian wrote:
The Mohonk Preserve claims on their web site over 150,000 visitors. http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?interns Even if only one quarter of them are climbers (conservative estimate) that is 37,500 climbers per year at $15 per head or $562,500 and $9 for non-climbers that is another million bucks. The Preserve is suppose to be a non-profit organization. So if they are raking in $1.5 million a year somebody is making money.


A lot of the climbers, and probably a good portion of the other users, are members and aren't paying $15 every time they go there. That would reduce estimated income significantly. And maintaining a park that large in that nice condition takes a lot of money. I don't think anyone is getting rich from collecting climbing fees. If you think you're being ripped off, write them for a copy of the balance sheet. I'm willing to bet you won't find a big pile o' money left after expenses. Membership pays for itself on the 6th visit, so if you go there much at all, it's a good deal.

Kathy

By Brian
From Wakefield, RI
May 2, 2008
Photo Op on CCK

If the fee was $5 I think all climbers would go out of their way to pay and it may maintain the same or actually raise revenue. Lots of climbers (I know)think it is extravagant and avoid paying. I guess I'm just not used to paying like a rock gym to climb outside...or I'm just cheap. I would love to see their balance sheet. I suspect that us climbers paid for that fancy new visitor center. I would have rather done without the visitor center and kept the fees down but granted I'm not on the board of the Preserve so I don't get to vote. BTW I have bought annual memberships but it is not always cost effective for me.
I'm an old guy and remember when it was more of a preserve and less of a park/rock gym. I pine for those days even though it is delusional to hope that they will ever return.
Brian

By Andy Choens
From Albany, NY
May 2, 2008
Me!

According to this:

http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?individual

It looks the the cost for a year's membership for a full time student is $75 rather than $85. It's not much, but $10 is pizza and beer money. And you can add an additional adult to the membership for $15. But, you have to live in the same house.

If I were visiting and short on cash, I'd tell them that my climbing partner is a room-mate/house-mate and try to get one membership. It's a little cheaper and you're still contributing to the Preserve.

By Steve Knowlton
From Nyack, New York
May 2, 2008
Steve K waiting to top out on Betty at the Trapps

Remember---the Preserve is private property---climbing there is a privilege--not a right. And maintaining the Preserve and the services (rangers, EMS, etc.) that cater to the Preserve's users, including climbers---costs money. As a Preserve member, and an additional contributor to the Preserve I'm proud to help, in some small way, to keep this area open and accessible.

Calling it a climbing gym is just downright silly. I'm an old guy too---I remember climbing there "pre-cams" and do I wish it were less crowded sometimes: sure.

But get there early, climb weekdays, climb off season---and it's all yours, and for less than the gas you'll pay to drive there.

If it's wilderness you want, try the Daks.

By N. Pyle
From Newark, DE
May 2, 2008
First pitch of High Exposure.

Thanks for all of the responses so far. I would say that I agree with paying the daily fee or buying annual pass. The only reason I asked though is because I am just a very poor college student right now who earns about $80 every two weeks, working in what little time I have. I would have no problem paying any of those fees if they were a little less of my current income. I do understand that it is a privilege to be able to climb at the Gunks, so I guess I will just have to man-up and pay. Who needs money anyway, right?

By tradryan
May 2, 2008

Brian wrote:
I guess I'm just not used to paying like a rock gym to climb outside...or I'm just cheap.


I guess if paying to climb outside makes the area "like a rock gym" then the list of gyms includes not only the Gunks but Zion, Yosemite, Eldo, Ouray, Rocky Mountain National Park, etc. etc. etc.
R

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From Boulder, CO
May 2, 2008
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route.<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce_hildenbrand/11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>

tradryan wrote:
I guess if paying to climb outside makes the area "like a rock gym" then the list of gyms includes not only the Gunks but Zion, Yosemite, Eldo, Ouray, Rocky Mountain National Park, etc. etc. etc. R

Colorado State Parks annual pass - $60
National Parks annual pass - $80
Mohonk Preserve annual climbing pass - $85

Vail one-day lift ticket - $81
Aspen one-day lift ticket - $87

Getting a year's worth of climbing for the price of one day of skiing is a real bargain; pay up and be thankful it doesn't cost more.

By Brian
From Wakefield, RI
May 2, 2008
Photo Op on CCK

Ron,
If you want to compare the fees at other places the Preserve is considerably more expensive. For example, Eldo Canyon is $5 per day $7 on weekends. Red Rocks and Yosemite is $20 per week for a car. Yosemite is $40 for an annual pass. Comparing the Preserve to a pass for all of the national parks in the country and ski areas is apples to oranges. Although you are right in that climbing is getting to be as outragous as skiing.
Paying to climb outside doesn't necessarily make it like a rock gym. The Gunks is becoming like that for a host of other reasons which I could whine about infinitum. But I will continue to keep going there and put up with it and IMHO the excessive fees.
Brian

Ron Olsen wrote:
Colorado State Parks annual pass - $60 National Parks annual pass - $80 Mohonk Preserve annual climbing pass - $85 Vail one-day lift ticket - $81 Aspen one-day lift ticket - $87 Getting a year's worth of climbing for the price of one day of skiing is a real bargain; pay up and be thankful it doesn't cost more.

By Greg Mionske
From Boulder, CO
May 2, 2008
me

hey nick,
maybe instead of paying the full 75$, you could offer some sexual favors in return for a price reduction. thats sure as hell what i plan on doing. see ya in a couple weeks. gunks kick ass!

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
May 2, 2008

Have they re-opened Sky Top? I got to climb there once back in 91 or so & then they closed it.
Gunks is awesome, but it does get crowded compared to some of the places I have climbed here in CO. I can see the comparison to a climbing gym not in having to pay to climb there, but due to crowds. Crowds being a subjective term. having to place gear definitely not a gym thing.

Bring lowe tri cams!!!!

By Brian
From Wakefield, RI
May 2, 2008
Photo Op on CCK

Harold,

Ahh...another thing I can whine about...they opened Sky Top only if you stay at the Mohonk House and hire a guide. So the privilage of climbing there will literally set you back a grand or so. I use to climb at Sky top myself. Some great routes. Compared to 1991 you wouldn't recognize the Gunks. They have put in a lot of bolted belays to protect the trees (good idea) but they are many times used to top-rope the first pitch of multi-pitch climbs including some classics such as Snooky's Return, Jackie, etc. If you walk along the bottom of the cliff on a busy weekend you will get what I mean about a rock gym.
Brian

Harold Lampasso wrote:
Have they re-opened Sky Top? I got to climb there once back in 91 or so & then they closed it. Gunks is awesome, but it does get crowded compared to some of the places I have climbed here in CO. I can see the comparison to a climbing gym not in having to pay to climb there, but due to crowds. Crowds being a subjective term. having to place gear definitely not a gym thing. Bring lowe tri cams!!!!

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
May 2, 2008

Brian..

WHAT!! holy insaneness regardng Sky top. I know when i last climbed there Trapps/Neartrapps in summer 2001 things were kinda crazy. If you didn't get there early enough you had to either wait on line for the classics or go climb something else. Luckily there are a whole lot of classics there. Miss hanging out on the GT ledge and my favorite hanging rap if i remember correctly was at the top of madame g's?

By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
May 4, 2008
Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Brian wrote:
Even if only one quarter of them are climbers (conservative estimate) that is 37,500 climbers per year at $15 per head or $562,500 and $9 for non-climbers that is another million bucks. The Preserve is suppose to be a non-profit organization. So if they are raking in $1.5 million a year somebody is making money.


Total operating income is in fact about $2 million dollars, just about all of which is spent on the Preserve. But entry fees only account for about $225,000, membership fees and contributions both around double that.

Brian wrote:
I used to go out of my way to find a ranger to pay the fee when it was $5. Since then it has crept up to $15. It cost the same to go to most rock gyms (outside NYC that is...I guess I'm just not used to paying like a rock gym to climb outside...or I'm just cheap.).


Is $15 for sunrise-to-sunset use of 6,500 acres of Preserve land and more than 1,000 rock climbs excessive because people pay the same thing for a few hours indoors breathing chalk dust and pulling plastic on 40 foot walls? The only rational conclusion one can make from this particular comparison is that the Preserve is an incredible bargain at a mere $15 a day, because it sure as hell ought to cost a lot more than a friggin' gym.

And its not as if we're talking about some tract in the Yukon. The Preserve sits in the midst of an gigantic population concentration. That land would disappear to developers in the blink of an eye, and climbers wouldn't get to touch an inch of it (or would indeed have to pay ski-resort day fees for some tiny part of it).

Any climber who cares at all about the preservation of open space ought to put the purchase of a their next #4 camalot on hold and buy a year's membership to the Preserve, whether or not they climb there for six days. I see climbers walking around all the time with enough shiny gear for El Cap, Imelda Marcos climbing shoe collections, and clothes suitable for Fitz Roy in winter, and then they try to sneak out of supporting the organization that provides a fantastic place for them to cart around all this swag, mouthing self-serving pieties about excessive fees and leaning on preposterous notions that this land is somehow theirs for the taking.

By Charles Dalgleish
From Salt Lake City, Utah
May 4, 2008
Flakes of Wrath in Moab Utah.

Hey Brian, also understand that our TAX dollars go to support yosemite and many other state and national parks, thus defraying some of the costs.

And yes, we paid our 40 for 2 day when we went, and it was well worth it for us.

By Brian
From Wakefield, RI
May 5, 2008
Photo Op on CCK

Your arguement is a bit shrill and off track. No one in the thread indicated that the Preserve is "somehow theirs for the taking," or put forth any "preposterous notions." It is strictly a difference of opinion where some think that the fees are overly expensive and some don't. What is preposterous is that the Preserve is going to "disappear to developers in the blink of an eye." It can't, it is a Preseve and as such protected. If you are concerned with development along the Shawangunk Ridge you should get involved/donate to the Shawangunk Ridge Coailition which is a different topic than we are discussing here. http://www.shawangunkridge.org/threats.htm BTW...I only own one pair of climbing shoes and the have been resoled twice.

Brian

rgold wrote:
Total operating income is in fact about $2 million dollars, just about all of which is spent on the Preserve. But entry fees only account for about $225,000, membership fees and contributions both around double that. Is $15 for sunrise-to-sunset use of 6,500 acres of Preserve land and more than 1,000 rock climbs excessive because people pay the same thing for a few hours indoors breathing chalk dust and pulling plastic on 40 foot walls? The only rational conclusion one can make from this particular comparison is that the Preserve is an incredible bargain at a mere $15 a day, because it sure as hell ought to cost a lot more than a friggin' gym. And its not as if we're talking about some tract in the Yukon. The Preserve sits in the midst of an gigantic population concentration. That land would disappear to developers in the blink of an eye, and climbers wouldn't get to touch an inch of it (or would indeed have to pay ski-resort day fees for some tiny part of it). Any climber who cares at all about the preservation of open space ought to put the purchase of a their next #4 camalot on hold and buy a year's membership to the Preserve, whether or not they climb there for six days. I see climbers walking around all the time with enough shiny gear for El Cap, Imelda Marcos climbing shoe collections, and clothes suitable for Fitz Roy in winter, and then they try to sneak out of supporting the organization that provides a fantastic place for them to cart around all this swag, mouthing self-serving pieties about excessive fees and leaning on preposterous notions that this land is somehow theirs for the taking.

By Jeremy
From Boulder, CO
May 5, 2008
Super Slide

Check at the HQ when you go. I seem to remember that they have a Family or student type membership where the first person in your house pays full and each person after pays about half of the yearly fee. So if you go as a group of 4 or 5 you get a pretty good discount (all use the same address). The ranger said this was specifically for students and kinda for climbers who just visit for a week or so.

By Andy Choens
From Albany, NY
May 5, 2008
Me!

Brian wrote:
Your arguement is a bit shrill and off track. No one in the thread indicated that the Preserve is "somehow theirs for the taking," or put forth any "preposterous notions."


You're right, nobody has said anything like that in this thread. But, I have definitely heard stuff like that while hanging out with Gunks climbers.

Unfortunately, there are climbers who resent the fees that support the Mohonk Preserve. Fortunately, the people who care about climbing enough to belong to a climbing forum seem to have a slightly different perspective!

I know climbers who have gone to great lengths to avoid the fees (I'm not going to call out anyone here). I'll even admit that when I was a poor undergraduate student visiting one summer I bouldered a few days in the Nears to avoid the Rangers. That being said, I do think it's important to pay the fees, because without the Preserve (or something just like it) this incredible climbing resource, and part of our history would be lost.

By tradryan
May 5, 2008

rgold wrote:
And its not as if we're talking about some tract in the Yukon. The Preserve sits in the midst of an gigantic population concentration. That land would disappear to developers in the blink of an eye, and climbers wouldn't get to touch an inch of it (or would indeed have to pay ski-resort day fees for some tiny part of it).


Bingo (Wassup RG)

R

By tradryan
May 5, 2008

Brian wrote:
What is preposterous is that the Preserve is going to "disappear to developers in the blink of an eye." It can't, it is a Preseve and as such protected.


BWAHAHAHAHAHA!

Oh young one, you have so much to learn about land management policy,

R


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