By Jay Knower Administrator Dec 18, 2006
| I am wondering where you, the NE climber, usually climb. Why do you tend to climb in one place rather than another? Practical reasons? Ethical reasons? Other reasons? |  |
By Todd Harris Dec 18, 2006
| Rumney and the Gunks. Rumney has tons of sport routes scattered all over Rattlesnake Mtn. Some argue Rumney is the best sport climbing in the country. It's hard to disagree. If you're a weekend warrior, you can maximize your climbing in 4-6 hours at Rumney what would take you two days at the Gunks. Both places are amazing. Brings a smile to my ugly mug just thinking about 'em.
Rumney is all sport climbing. Some like it, some don't. As a weekend warrior, I prefer to get as much climbing in as possible and I find myself driving to Rumney 80% of the time. That place kicks my ass.
Honorable mention: Cathedral Ledge |  |
By Jake D. Dec 20, 2006
| Rumney for sport, Gunks and sometimes Conway stuff for trad. Lincoln Woods (local) and Pawtuckaway for bouldering. |  |
By Josh Squire From East Boston, MA Dec 20, 2006
| Favorite places are Gunks, Rumney, North COnway, Echo Crag, Acadia, and Crow HIll. I love going to new places, so I try to get all over. |  |
By RSBrass Dec 20, 2006
| Gunks. main reason it's 5 min. from my house. but I'm in Tucson now. |  |
By Dave Pujdak Dec 21, 2006
| The Gunks because it's only 10mi from my front door. |  |
By Taino From South Salem, NY Dec 21, 2006
| The Gunks. It's about one hour from my house, making it much more convenient than, say, Ragged Mountain, and I prefer to climb trad over sport.
For sport, though, I go to Rumney.
T |  |
By wonderwoman Dec 26, 2006
| Josh Squire wrote: Favorite places are Gunks, Rumney, North COnway, Echo Crag, Acadia, and Crow HIll. I love going to new places, so I try to get all over. Wow - what a coincidence! I love those places, too!
I have to say that the Precipice in Acadia is my favorite place for trad. Gunks is a very close second.
And I absolutely love Rumney to get a good burn. I'm too chicken to get a good burn on trad! |  |
By Josh Squire From East Boston, MA Dec 27, 2006
| wonderwoman wrote: I'm too chicken to get a good burn on trad!
We'll have to change that next season. As long as the gear is good, that is ;) |  |
By Eastvillage From New York, NY Dec 28, 2006
| Usually the Gunks, then Connecticut, East Peak, Ragged Mtn, Cathole, the Giant, etc. Both are the same distance from NYC, about 100 miles + or -. CT is usually very quiet, not at all like an outdoor gym, as opposed to the Gunks. CT is also free, so that's nice. The Gunks is an amazing place, though.
All the other crags in New England are significantly farther away, 5-8 hours drive. |  |
By Harold Lampasso From Colorado Springs Dec 28, 2006
| When I lived in NYC, I used to go to the Gunks. Great trad! Too much like a climbing gym and way too many rules which my brother has told me have gotten even stricter. The last time I climbed there was about 7 years ago and you didn't have to wait till 8 am to climb. I would rather make the 6-hour drive to climb @ Cathedral Ledge & Whitehorse, then go for a swim in the Saco River. Camping out on the Kancamangus (?) @ Covered Bridge Campground. Ahh, brings back some great memories. |  |
By Taino From South Salem, NY Dec 28, 2006
| Harold Lampasso wrote: When I lived in NYC, I used to go to the GUnks. Great trad! Too much like a climbing gym and way too many rules which my brother has told me have gotten even stricter. The last time I climbed there was about 7 years ago and you didn't have to wait till 8 am to climb. I would rather make the 6 hour drive to climb @ Cathedral Ledge & WHitehorse, then go for a swim in the Saco River. Camping out on the Kancamangus (?) @ Covered Bridge Campground. Ahh brings back some great memories.
Sorry, but what do you mean "have to wait until 8am to climb"? If I haven't started pitch two by 8am, something's wrong or it's winter. I've never been told that I couldn't get onto the rock early.
Rules? Again - sorry, but what rules? Don't trundle? Don't drytool? Keep your dog on a leash, and don't abandon them at the bottom of a multipitch route for hours? I don't understand.
Cheers,
T |  |
By Harold Lampasso From Colorado Springs Dec 29, 2006
| last i heard you had to wait till 8 am to get into the place. I used to be on High E for a warm up @ 6'ish and never had to wait in line. But if that is not true all the better for you guys back there now.
Can't park @ the hairpin? have to park in the lot @ the bottom of the hill. (I understand the need for some order there)Can't camp out on a road that used to be just below that? More MONEY to climb and WAY TO CROWDED kinda like a gym. Don't get me wrong I love the GUnks. Great place to climb w/ some great history and a lot of good memories for me. Guess I am a little spoiled out here!!
Climb Happy! |  |
By Taino From South Salem, NY Dec 29, 2006
| Harold Lampasso wrote: last i heard you had to wait till 8 am to get into the place. I used to be on High E for a warm up @ 6'ish and never had to wait in line. But if that is not true all the better for you guys back there now. Can't park @ the hairpin? have to park in the lot @ the bottom of the hill. (I understand the need for some order there)Can't camp out on a road that used to be just below that? More MONEY to climb and WAY TO CROWDED kinda like a gym. Don't get me wrong I love the GUnks. Great place to climb w/ some great history and a lot of good memories for me. Guess I am a little spoiled out here!! Climb Happy!
Well, okay, you got me there. More money is certainly a PITA, but I'm there all the time; a yearly membership pays for itself in about a month. More crowded, yes... *shrug* We deal.
Happy holidays!
T |  |
By Harold Lampasso From Colorado Springs Dec 29, 2006
| I agree with most if not all of the rules T but when I was climbing in the '90's there it was a little better. But w/ the influx of climbers there I guess a little more rules is better than closing the place off. I have heard rumor that Sky Top is open again???
Very true about the membership! |  |
By Taino From South Salem, NY Dec 29, 2006
| Harold Lampasso wrote: I agree with most if not all of the rules T but when I was climbing in the '90's there it was a little better. But w/ the influx of climbers there I guess a little more rules is better than closing the place off. I have heard rumor that Sky Top is open again??? Very true about the membership!
Unfortunately, there is still no legal climbing at Skytop. It has not been reopened, and it looks to remain legally closed to climbing for the foreseeable future.
T |  |
By lee hansche From goffstown, nh Jan 18, 2007
| cathedral and white horse ledges...rumney...cannon...pawtuckaway (great crack training, and i hear they have boulders too, haha) depends on what im looking for,i like to do it all and new hampshire has it all... |  |
By Chris Duca Administrator From Hinesburg, Vermont Jan 19, 2007
| I typically climb in the Adirondacks due to its proximity, and I enjoy clipping bolts at Rumney. The Gunks would be my area of choice, but it is too far to justify making it a regular destination. |  |
By Yev Jan 26, 2007
| wow.. I can't believe Cannon only came up once in this thread. So what if it sheds a layer every year and you may have to dodge some boulders early in the season :) Seriously though, for a true trad/alpine experience, Cannon's the place, everything from moderate to 5.10 and up trad, even A1/2/3 if you're into that sort of thing. want more of a challenge? leave all your active pro at home .. j/k
Tying for first place is the Adirondacks. Fewer crowds (most places).
Second place: Cathedral ledge
Gunks, just get there early and you can save the entrance fee.
Ragged in CT, Whitehorse in NH |  |
By Leo Paik Administrator From Westminster, Colorado Jan 27, 2007
| FWIW, it's pretty unnerving when Cannon sheds a few layers while you're on the cliff. Shakes the whole cliff & the commotion of the rock settling in the talus fields below give pause to the notion of continuing up. It makes ya wonder about enough you got a full deck.... |  |
By GoBotRocker From Spfld, Ma Apr 17, 2007
| We are so lucky, from Acadia to the Adirondacks and all in between. As I spend alot of my time near home I'll have to say Ragged, Bunyan Mtn. and Crow Hill, are some of my favorites. |  |
By Robbovius Apr 18, 2007
| College Rock, in Hopkinton MA. it's 2 miles from my appt. |  |
By Ladd Raine Administrator From Plymouth, NH Apr 18, 2007
| I climb at Rumney, Pawtuckaway, Cathedral and Whitehorse for my local crags. When I can, I try to get up to Acadia, over to the Gunks, and down to Lincoln Woods |  |
By Mike Lydon From Colorado Springs Co May 6, 2007
| I havent climbed anywhere on the east coast...I just moved from the colorado front range to Alexandria Va...any suggestions for a weekend from here?
Mike |  |
By Ron Olsen Administrator From Boulder, CO May 6, 2007
| Mike Lydon wrote: I havent climbed anywhere on the east coast...I just moved from the colorado front range to Alexandria Va...any suggestions for a weekend from here? Mike My condolences, Mike. :-)
You might try posting in the Southern States forum; maybe some of our southern contingent can give you some ideas. |  |
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