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Northeastern Climbers: Where do you usually climb?

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006
Wild Thing, Independence Pass, CO.

I am wondering where you, the NE climber, usually climb. Why do you tend to climb in one place rather than another? Practical reasons? Ethical reasons? Other reasons?

By Andy Choens
From Albany, NY
Dec 18, 2006
Me!

The Gunks.

By Todd Harris
Dec 18, 2006

Rumney and the Gunks. Rumney has tons of sport routes scattered all over Rattlesnake Mtn. Some argue Rumney is the best sport climbing in the country. It's hard to disagree. If you're a weekend warrior, you can maximize your climbing in 4-6 hours at Rumney what would take you two days at the Gunks. Both places are amazing. Brings a smile to my ugly mug just thinking about 'em.

Rumney is all sport climbing. Some like it, some don't. As a weekend warrior, I prefer to get as much climbing in as possible and I find myself driving to Rumney 80% of the time. That place kicks my ass.

Honorable mention: Cathedral Ledge

By Jake D.
Dec 20, 2006

Rumney for sport, Gunks and sometimes Conway stuff for trad. Lincoln Woods (local) and Pawtuckaway for bouldering.

By Josh Squire
From East Boston, MA
Dec 20, 2006
This climb is called Toe Jam. Super nice climb. I thought it was a little stiff, but then again, everything is stiff there.

Favorite places are Gunks, Rumney, North COnway, Echo Crag, Acadia, and Crow HIll. I love going to new places, so I try to get all over.

By RSBrass
Dec 20, 2006

Gunks. main reason it's 5 min. from my house.
but I'm in Tucson now.

By Dave Pujdak
Dec 21, 2006

The Gunks because it's only 10mi from my front door.

By Taino
From South Salem, NY
Dec 21, 2006
A mug shot for my profile.

The Gunks. It's about one hour from my house, making it much more convenient than, say, Ragged Mountain, and I prefer to climb trad over sport.

For sport, though, I go to Rumney.

T

By wonderwoman
Dec 26, 2006
Wonderwoman on CCK

Josh Squire wrote:
Favorite places are Gunks, Rumney, North COnway, Echo Crag, Acadia, and Crow HIll. I love going to new places, so I try to get all over.


Wow - what a coincidence! I love those places, too!

I have to say that the Precipice in Acadia is my favorite place for trad. Gunks is a very close second.

And I absolutely love Rumney to get a good burn. I'm too chicken to get a good burn on trad!

By Josh Squire
From East Boston, MA
Dec 27, 2006
This climb is called Toe Jam. Super nice climb. I thought it was a little stiff, but then again, everything is stiff there.

wonderwoman wrote:
I'm too chicken to get a good burn on trad!


We'll have to change that next season. As long as the gear is good, that is ;)

By Eastvillage
From New York, NY
Dec 28, 2006

Usually the Gunks, then Connecticut, East Peak, Ragged Mtn, Cathole, the Giant, etc.
Both are the same distance from NYC, about 100 miles + or -.
CT is usually very quiet, not at all like an outdoor gym, as opposed to the Gunks.
CT is also free, so that's nice.
The Gunks is an amazing place, though.

All the other crags in New England are significantly farther away, 5-8 hours drive.

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
Dec 28, 2006

When I lived in NYC, I used to go to the Gunks. Great trad! Too much like a climbing gym and way too many rules which my brother has told me have gotten even stricter. The last time I climbed there was about 7 years ago and you didn't have to wait till 8 am to climb.
I would rather make the 6-hour drive to climb @ Cathedral Ledge & Whitehorse, then go for a swim in the Saco River. Camping out on the Kancamangus (?) @ Covered Bridge Campground. Ahh, brings back some great memories.

By Taino
From South Salem, NY
Dec 28, 2006
A mug shot for my profile.

Harold Lampasso wrote:
When I lived in NYC, I used to go to the GUnks. Great trad! Too much like a climbing gym and way too many rules which my brother has told me have gotten even stricter. The last time I climbed there was about 7 years ago and you didn't have to wait till 8 am to climb. I would rather make the 6 hour drive to climb @ Cathedral Ledge & WHitehorse, then go for a swim in the Saco River. Camping out on the Kancamangus (?) @ Covered Bridge Campground. Ahh brings back some great memories.


Sorry, but what do you mean "have to wait until 8am to climb"? If I haven't started pitch two by 8am, something's wrong or it's winter. I've never been told that I couldn't get onto the rock early.

Rules? Again - sorry, but what rules? Don't trundle? Don't drytool? Keep your dog on a leash, and don't abandon them at the bottom of a multipitch route for hours? I don't understand.

Cheers,

T

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
Dec 29, 2006

last i heard you had to wait till 8 am to get into the place. I used to be on High E for a warm up @ 6'ish and never had to wait in line. But if that is not true all the better for you guys back there now.

Can't park @ the hairpin? have to park in the lot @ the bottom of the hill. (I understand the need for some order there)Can't camp out on a road that used to be just below that? More MONEY to climb and WAY TO CROWDED kinda like a gym. Don't get me wrong I love the GUnks. Great place to climb w/ some great history and a lot of good memories for me. Guess I am a little spoiled out here!!

Climb Happy!

By Taino
From South Salem, NY
Dec 29, 2006
A mug shot for my profile.

Harold Lampasso wrote:
last i heard you had to wait till 8 am to get into the place. I used to be on High E for a warm up @ 6'ish and never had to wait in line. But if that is not true all the better for you guys back there now. Can't park @ the hairpin? have to park in the lot @ the bottom of the hill. (I understand the need for some order there)Can't camp out on a road that used to be just below that? More MONEY to climb and WAY TO CROWDED kinda like a gym. Don't get me wrong I love the GUnks. Great place to climb w/ some great history and a lot of good memories for me. Guess I am a little spoiled out here!! Climb Happy!


Well, okay, you got me there. More money is certainly a PITA, but I'm there all the time; a yearly membership pays for itself in about a month. More crowded, yes... *shrug* We deal.

Happy holidays!

T

By Harold Lampasso
From Colorado Springs
Dec 29, 2006

I agree with most if not all of the rules T but when I was climbing in the '90's there it was a little better. But w/ the influx of climbers there I guess a little more rules is better than closing the place off. I have heard rumor that Sky Top is open again???

Very true about the membership!

By Taino
From South Salem, NY
Dec 29, 2006
A mug shot for my profile.

Harold Lampasso wrote:
I agree with most if not all of the rules T but when I was climbing in the '90's there it was a little better. But w/ the influx of climbers there I guess a little more rules is better than closing the place off. I have heard rumor that Sky Top is open again??? Very true about the membership!


Unfortunately, there is still no legal climbing at Skytop. It has not been reopened, and it looks to remain legally closed to climbing for the foreseeable future.

T

By lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Jan 18, 2007
me and the sentinel....

cathedral and white horse ledges...rumney...cannon...pawtuckaway (great crack training, and i hear they have boulders too, haha)
depends on what im looking for,i like to do it all and new hampshire has it all...

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Hinesburg, Vermont
Jan 19, 2007
Johnny B. Good.  RRG, KY.

I typically climb in the Adirondacks due to its proximity, and I enjoy clipping bolts at Rumney. The Gunks would be my area of choice, but it is too far to justify making it a regular destination.

By Yev
Jan 26, 2007

wow.. I can't believe Cannon only came up once in this thread.
So what if it sheds a layer every year and you may have to dodge some boulders early in the season :)
Seriously though, for a true trad/alpine experience, Cannon's the place, everything from moderate to 5.10 and up trad, even A1/2/3 if you're into that sort of thing. want more of a challenge? leave all your active pro at home .. j/k

Tying for first place is the Adirondacks. Fewer crowds (most places).

Second place: Cathedral ledge

Gunks, just get there early and you can save the entrance fee.

Ragged in CT, Whitehorse in NH

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Jan 27, 2007

FWIW, it's pretty unnerving when Cannon sheds a few layers while you're on the cliff. Shakes the whole cliff & the commotion of the rock settling in the talus fields below give pause to the notion of continuing up. It makes ya wonder about enough you got a full deck....

By GoBotRocker
From Spfld, Ma
Apr 17, 2007

We are so lucky, from Acadia to the Adirondacks and all in between. As I spend alot of my time near home I'll have to say Ragged, Bunyan Mtn. and Crow Hill, are some of my favorites.

By Robbovius
Apr 18, 2007

College Rock, in Hopkinton MA. it's 2 miles from my appt.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 18, 2007
Ladd setting up for the final moves

I climb at Rumney, Pawtuckaway, Cathedral and Whitehorse for my local crags. When I can, I try to get up to Acadia, over to the Gunks, and down to Lincoln Woods

By Mike Lydon
From Colorado Springs Co
May 6, 2007

I havent climbed anywhere on the east coast...I just moved from the colorado front range to Alexandria Va...any suggestions for a weekend from here?

Mike

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From Boulder, CO
May 6, 2007
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route.<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce_hildenbrand/11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>

Mike Lydon wrote:
I havent climbed anywhere on the east coast...I just moved from the colorado front range to Alexandria Va...any suggestions for a weekend from here? Mike

My condolences, Mike. :-)

You might try posting in the Southern States forum; maybe some of our southern contingent can give you some ideas.


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