My 6-yr old is getting cocky on the sandstone pockets at Red River Gorge so I want to throw her at some Adirondack rock when we vacation there next month. Any suggestions for areas with a decent concentration of top-ropeable routes in the 5.4 - 5.8 range?

From perusing the Mellor guide it looks like Whitewater Walls and Spanky's Wall in Keene Valley might hold some good potential. Thoughts?

My familiarity with 'Dacks climbing is (so far) limited to Pitchoff Chimney Cliff and I don't remember much top-rope there other than the practice slab.

Thanks!

--AH

Yah, Pitchoff is good, you can get three good TR lines off the ledge below the chimney. Also good are Beer Walls (upper), Hurricane Wall, And King Phillip's Walls is really popular (crowded)but there is a lot of possibility for setting up a ton of routes. There is also some fun stuff outside of Lake Placid with cliff jumping and swimming right there. Ask at the Mountaineer for better info, I cant remember how I got there...

The Beer Walls are the #1 destination in the Dacks for TRing. I'd avoid it on weekends..besides there's only like 3 TRs fitting your criteria, and they're very short. I'll suggest Jewels & Gems crag (NCCC 5.6 and In the Rough 5.7+ are fantastic) Creature Wall, and Owl's Head. Also, Notch Mountain Slabs may be another choice. If you want a real "Dacks experience", just look through the guidebook for an obscure single pitch crag that isn't roadside on 73. It'll probably take you forever to find and when you do..you'll find yourself alone. As Ryan said, ask somebody at the Mountaineer and they'll be able to suggest more. Enjoy your vacation! The Dacks is by far my favorite climbing area.

Hey Rafiki,

You live in New Paltz and your favorite climbs are in the 'Dacks and not the Gunks? That is interesting....

Back in the late'70's we used to top rope alot at Mount Jo near Heart Lake and Adirondack Loj. Some good stuff there, but I don't know if it is still accessible.

Lee- Yeah, I just moved to New Paltz..so that may change, but probably not. I haven't been on any of the Gunks classics yet though..so my perspective is somewhat limited. I learned how to lead in the Dacks and grew up backpacking there. So, I have a special connection to that area. The Dacks is pristine wilderness without crowds and fees, unlike the Gunks. I feel like the Dacks has better rock quality too and each crag has its own character. Looking up at the Gunks it all looks the same to me. Horizontals are a new game to me, I'm used to Dacks cracks that take gear whenever you want it. I just need some to get used to the type of climbing here.

Thanks for the suggestions. I don't need a ton of variety for her; just 1 or 2 TR-able routes that are close to each other will keep her happy. She'll run laps all day on the same route if I let her.