I'm trying to find some people with any knowledge on routes, grades, or any insight to offer on climbing in Purgatory Chasm in MA. Specifically, is it illegal to boulder even if you have a climbing permit? I just moved here and info is hard to come by.

Thanks,
Doug

I would suggest looking into Crow hill, Farley, College rock for much better climbing. Purgatory IMO is a massive pile of choss covered in dirt.

you can post on Newenglandbouldering.com about the bouldering there but the cliffs themselves are not worth much effort.

There actually is a long history of climbing at Purgatory. It is the very first place I roped up - ~45 years ago. The climbs are mostly short but the rock is good for the most part and there are some good problems.

The legalities of climbing there change from year to year. It's hard to get a straight answer. The best bet is to probably keep a low profile - don't ask don't tell don't argue.

That said - what Jake said also has merit. College Rock and Crow Hill are well established popular climbing areas with no access issues. You are much more likely to run into other climbers there. Assuming you are coming from Shrewsbury they are at least as convenient as Purgatory. If you want to explore a bit further a field Farley or most of the Eastern MA areas are within an hour. Lincoln Woods in RI for top notch bouldering.

If you want the most efficient fix and meet other climbers right here right now - then you'll head to the Central Rock Gym in Worcester.

I'd agree with Eric. Purgatory ain't so bad (it's kinda cool just as a place to go for a hike), but it's probably a better use of your time to head to Crow Hill or College Rock to rope up or to the Woods to boulder, or out to Farley for a bit of everything. Have fun!

Purgatory closes to climbers for most of the winter... and spring. They yelled at me last April. If you talk to the ranger there (you can call ahead) you can get the most up to date information on access.