||Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 105'
|Consensus: ||WI4+ M6+ [details]|
|FA: ||Rob Griz, Brad Grohusky|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||795|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Jan 25, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Eastern Xpansion. The route follows directly up t...
Start 15' right of the WI4 ice (Lowe Gravity
) in the West Firehouse area. The route begins out of the cave on overhanging terrain past 2 bolts to an awkward bulge where a 0.5-.75 cam protects the move atop. From the great no-hands rest, follow the bolt line past what appears from the ground (and picture) to be easy, slabby climbing (beware!). This section may have you screaming "Beta ME!". Mini-huecos, pockets, and horizontals keep your attention low, with the blank looking top-out looming above. A few dirt hooks takes you to an independent anchor on the large ledge. This route gives you the option to climb pure rock to the top or traverse onto the neighboring WI4- ice. Late season conditions may bring veraglas to the upper part of the climb.
This route is located in the West Firehouse (right gully) 15' right of the main WI4 ice flow. Descend via the anchors on the ledge atop the route.
0.5-.75 cam, 10 draws, and a stick-clip (found in the rescue sled).
By Mike Bannister
Mar 7, 2013
The first hold on this route appears to have broken off some time in Feburary 2013. It looks/feels somewhere between MUCH harder and impossible now.
By Rob Griz
Mar 11, 2013
The holds on this route have lived up to Vail tradition. This route has seen a bunch of TR'ing due to its proximity to the ice sheet. Shit changes here on the Vail limestone. I have retro-bolted and 'refurbished' the line after breaking another hold myself. Enjoy a solid, straight shot to the lip via fun, moderate dry-tooling. This year has brought yet another strange change in the water flow, and this route now has a nice curtain to the right of it. Water has seeped from the mid-cliff, shallow, right-facing corner and formed a curtain that is pegged out, allowing folks to gain the upper ice.