Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge Rock Climbing
Fun move on The Underling
Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge has an interesting mix of older classic trad routes and early sport climbing testpieces. While there aren't many easy routes in the area, some of the moderate ones have attracted intermediate climbers over the years.
Inhibitor is a trad classic and a 5.11 masterpiece involving some wide, some really wide, and steep hand jams. The classic 5.11 sport route King Me was featured on the cover of the seminal "How to Climb 5.12" manual from a few years ago.
Hard core traddies or sportos that visit the area will miss out on some classics if they don't dabble in their weaker discipline. The Underling (5.9, trad) is a must do, as is Jack in the Pulpit (10d, sport). And just to make things interesting one of the best and most well-known problems in the Red is located on the boulder that fell out of the Inhibitor dihedral. You can get by without a crashpad, but make sure you have a spotter for the mantel crux of The Pearl V5.
Easter Sky Bridge Ridge also boast the current hardest trad line in the Red and perhaps in Kentucky: Silently Does the Sun Shine, a 5.14- put up by Andrew Gearing.
From the concrete bridge on KY 715 (parking area for Eagle's Nest and Wall of Denial) drive a little further back toward Pine Ridge and look for a wide pulloff on the left before the Swift Camp trailhead parking on the right. Walk back down the road toward the bridge and look for a trail on the left (as you walk, uphill) side of the road.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge:
Good Times 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
No Return 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Super Dario 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Inhibitor 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
King Me 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Sick Puppies 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Soul Ram 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
No Return 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a KY
: Red River Gorge
: Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
Be ready to employ all your crack mojo - fingers, hands, fists! Gain crack from ledge at the right, and commence upward using jams and face holds. Grunt and struggle through widening crack and bulge (crux) to spacious ledge and rest (optional belay here). Continue up beautiful dihedral/finger crack to ledge and anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in KY
Aug 27, 2014
The parking area is north of the very sharp hairpin for the the sky bridge by about 0.7 miles on 715. If you're heading north the first parking area is for funk rock, the second is for sky bridge.
By Jordan K
Jan 19, 2015
Parking lot is at 37.8145855,-83.5819858
If coming from the direction of Nada Tunnel, it is about 0.6-0.7 miles past the one-lane concrete bridge. There is another turnout about .1 miles up the hill that is Funk Rock.
Trail head is about 300 downhill and around the bend from the parking area at 37.8149404,-83.5806639
(Not super obvious where trail hits the road, but there is a forest service sign post about 15-20 feet off the road on the trail)
5 min hike up hill. Beautiful sunny climbing -- great winter crag, but expect full sun in summer!