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Piedra River - East Side
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Eastern Pleasures 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alex Scott
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Pullhard on Sep 26, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: View of the upper third of Eastern Pleasures (5.11...

Description 

This is a great climb with two distinct, steep sections. The fun begins after the third bolt. Trend left and pull over the bulge (crux). Get a no hands rest and cruise up the slab. Follow the crack system up and keep veering left. The route remains steep, but the holds are big.

Location 

Park in the obvious turn-a-round after deadman's curve. Follow the established trail down to the rim. The top of Eastern Pleasures is by the farthest left tree near the canyon rim.

Rappel from the anchors or walk down the gully to the left (near the dead tree) to access the start of the climb.

Protection 

Quickdraws, 10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Use runners/long draws after the bulge to lessen rope drag. If you're top roping or lowering to clean the route, please do so off your own quickdraws. They are easy to retrieve from the top, which is by the parking area anyway.


Photos of Eastern Pleasures Slideshow Add Photo
View from the ground looking up.  The bottom 10 fe...
BETA PHOTO: View from the ground looking up. The bottom 10 fe...
View of the approach to the east rim.  The red X m...
BETA PHOTO: View of the approach to the east rim. The red X m...

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By Pullhard
Sep 26, 2011

BE ALERT! I have only climbed this route with a 70 meter rope. I don't know if it is safe to lower a climber back to the ground with a 60. I will post when I know more. It would be possible to belay the second to the top, then walk from the rim to your vehicle.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Tricky at the bulge but the rest of the climb is very straightforward. Plenty of good rests for the crafty. 70 meter for sure or top out to belay second.