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The Quarry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Wrecker 
Banquet T,S 
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 
Bowels, The T 
Depression  T 
Eastern Heart S 
Elephantiasis S 
Finger Wrecker 
Frank's Tame Years T 
Frank's Wild Years T 
Kleptocracy S 
Koolaid T,TR 
Marry Me, Becky T 
Moby Dick 
Mummy, The T 
Offwidth Bulge T 
One Night T,S 
Recession 2016 S 
Recession Arete S 
Scotland 'Wales' 
Shark Jaw T 
Sharkcicle T 
Short Tour, The T 
Silver Bullet T 
Something to Do 
South ArĂȘte 
Southwest Face 
Stimulus S 
Tough Love T 
Unknown T 
Warm Up Crack T 
Whale, The 
Yearling 
Unsorted Routes:

Eastern Heart 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jan 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Matt cranking on "Eastern Heart".

Description 

This has a funky start, it is best to stick clip first bolt. Thuggy stemming leads to a slab crux, followed by a neat arete section and thin move to the anchor.

Location 

This is the East-facing wall on pillar in the center of the Quarry Wall.

Protection 

8 bolts.


Photos of Eastern Heart Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on the arete section of "Eastern Heart&q...
Matt on the arete section of "Eastern Heart&q...

Comments on Eastern Heart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 10, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

A large undercling below the second bolt came off today and hit my belayer in the chest. Probably did not change the grade, but beware loose rock on this pitch.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 4, 2012

A friend of mine tried to put up the chimney to the right of this route maybe a year or two ago, he went back last weekend and was thinking about finishing it up but could no longer find it.... He's proposed that the pillar is no longer there. Thought I would put it out there for verification.
By gregmiller7
Dec 1, 2012

Everything is still there, including the chimney.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A lot of loose rock on this one. It's definitely still cleaning up, and I suspect it will get harder as more holds rip. I almost gave it a bomb, but the positioning at the top is sweet.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 8, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Very interesting reading the comments on this route. I have not climbed it since February 2009, but I am a bit surprised to hear that there is much loose rock. The top half of the route is on the softer rock, so it is understandable that things could break or crumble, especially if you stray from the line. The bottom seemed solid, but freeze-thaw action can loosen things up. I have seen a lot of holds break at the East Quarry. My advice is stay off routes at the quarries after heavy rains or snow. Moisture behind a flake or hold, followed by freezing & then thawing out can help to snap off many a hold that is aggressively pulled on.

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