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 ADVANCED
Skinner Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1937 route T 
Beached Whale (Unknown 2) S 
Central Corner T 
Dave Bell Memorial S 
Eastern Front T 
Lookatdat S 
Skin the Cat (Unknown 1) S 
Vegomatic T 
Wally World T 

Eastern Front 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,140
Submitted By: pete cogan on May 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Eastern Front is the chimney on the right.

Description 

If you're walking off from the Central Corner and want to get in one more route, try this. It's got a bit of everything, although it's awkward at times.

You'll be heading up the obvious channel/chimney to the left of the huge roof (see Hubbel's diagram). Climb up an easy, blocky ramp to an awkward "flaring chimney." After another blocky/slab section, enter an enjoyable chimney with cracks on either side. You can belay after the chimney with hand size pieces if you want to see your follower. The second pitch will be forty feet or so.

Now you've got 4 choices: a small crack heading off to the Left (5.7ish), 2 flaring off width-looking cracks straight up, or a fingery looking crack to the right. You can't see this left crack from the ground.

I don't think this is an ideal climb for a beginning leader because the positions can be odd. I think the climb is worth doing once, but the Central Corner would certainly be the reason to visit Skinner Mountain.

Protection 

Good pro all the way, #0.75 Camalot to #4. Big stoppers and tricams were also helpful. If you set an anchor above the chimney, hand-size pieces and smaller tricams will do the job well.


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