Easter Prohibition  5.9 R

232 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 810 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Paul Ross Steve Rydalch Patrick Moe .April 12th 2009 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  USBRIT on Apr 13, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: A)Rikle's Climb 5.8 B)Easter Prohibition 5.9R.C)T...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The climb was named to commemorate the first time we had forgotten the after climb beer !!The climb is slow to start but is worthwhile for the final pitch that has all the challenges of a classic Eastern Reef climb.
P1)Start up the blunt low angle ridge and continue up the very easy open groove to double anchors. 200' 5.0
P2)Continue up the right trending open groove good thread belay on the right side. 200'5.1
P3)The climb gets a little more difficult following the groove with odd cam placement and one pro bolt to double anchors below a vertical wall.180 5.7.
P4). An easy traverse right to double anchors.60' 5.4 (ignore sling and bolt up and over to the right this is on third pitch of Troglodytes)
P5)Sustained difficulty .Odd sections of the rock needs gentle care. Climb up steep rock just left of the belay and continue trending slightly up right passed 5/6 bolts and a couple of cam placements to double anchors on the summit ridge.170' 5.9R Register in a cairn about 80' up the easy ridge to the right .
Descent . Follow ridge down left to double anchors .First rap is 100' then two more 60m raps from double anchors to easy scramble down gully over to the right.

Location 

Climbs the north side of the formation just to right of the canyon entrance to the Death By Chocolate area. Starts between Rikle's Climb and Troglodytes Day Out. See Beta photo.

Protection 

A few cams from 1/2" to 3" ,slings ,quick draws two 60m ropes .

Photos of Easter Prohibition Slideshow

Add Photo

Starting Pitch 2	Paul on the final 5.9 pitch . Photo Pat Moe	Patrick nearing the top of the last pitch
Pat at the top section of the final pitch	After the climb.L to R dog Dotty, Steve, Patrick, ...	A) Easter Prohibition 5.9R B) Troglodytes Day Out ...
Steve belaying Paul on the final pitch...."God wha...