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East Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Few Dollars More.  T 
Bear's Reach T 
Between the Lines T 
Deviate, The T 
Easier Said than Done T 
East Corner T 
East Corner Arete T 
East Crack T 
East Wall T 
East Wall Arete T 
End of the Line T 
Fandango T 
Fantasia T 
Far East T 
Fear No Evil T 
Fireworks T 
Flying Circus T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Haystack T 
Horn Blower T 
Labor of Love T 
Last Sandwich, The T 
Line, The T 
Out to Lunge T 
Pigs on the Wing T 
Pop Bottle T 
Preparation H T 
Psychedelic Direct T 
Psychedelic Tree T 
Scimitar T 
Showtime T 
Unnamed T,S 

East Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.8023, -120.132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,403
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003
Forecast:
This Afternoon

59° | 34°
Sunday

45° | 27°
Monday

46° | 33°
Tuesday

54° | 36°
Wednesday

62° | 39°
Thursday

65° | 39°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.11+. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are rarely bolted. This 400 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, but not enough to call any routes sport. This wall has the highest concentration of classic trade routes, making it one of the more popular destinations at the leap.

Almost all of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! The Leap and especially East Wall is covered in dikes, sometimes almost half a foot wide making routes that would otherwise be difficult and very steep into exciting and wildly exposed routes that go at typically moderate grades. You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!

Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall. There is a spring running behind East Wall that has fresh clean and cold water bubbling out of the ground and running down hill alongside the trail. Please help keep this spring clean and do not use the bathroom or wash yourself off anywhere near it.

Getting There 

Approach: Total time: 15 minutes

From the main trail, head uphill (left at the fork just past the parking lot) about a 1/2 mile on the wide open rocky trail. As the path winds, you will see many smaller trails leading up to Lover's Leap. You should avoid the temptation of taking them,and stay on the main trail until it bends and is about 100 yards from the start of the climbing. The final path leading up to the East Face is very wide, and will take you to a side-windy uphill hike that takes less than 5 minutes from the main trail, and stays wide until just before the East Wall. This path runs you right into the start of the East Corner (5.10d).

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.2 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',10],['5.10',13],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Wall:
East Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bear's Reach   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Pop Bottle   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Haystack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
East Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Preparation H   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 130'   
Fandango   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Fantasia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Scimitar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Psychedelic Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Fear No Evil   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches   
The Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Unnamed   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Labor of Love   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
End of the Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Out to Lunge   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
East Corner   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Wall

Featured Route For East Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the first pitch.

Haystack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Tahoe : ... : East Wall
The crux is getting on the route in the summer. There's always a line so come early....real early. This route is a good entry level 5.8. Most of the pitches check in around 5.5 - 5.6. Midway up the second pitch is where you'll find the crux bulge. Its well protectable and only one short 5.8 move over it. The route is also really easy to follow. This is the best route to score booty gear on after a summer rain storm or early on Sunday mornings:)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of East Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Haley on 'Fantasia'
Patrick Haley on 'Fantasia'
Rock Climbing Photo: traverse
traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking west frombthe bottom of East Crack
Looking west frombthe bottom of East Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful trees on top.
Beautiful trees on top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dike Heaven
Dike Heaven
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall, Lover's Leap
BETA PHOTO: East Wall, Lover's Leap
Rock Climbing Photo: Al Swanson on the first ascent of "Unknown So...
Al Swanson on the first ascent of "Unknown So...
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "...
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "...
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall
BETA PHOTO: East Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall on a sunny Winter Day. Photo by Blitzo.
East Wall on a sunny Winter Day. Photo by Blitzo.

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