Patrick Haley on 'Fantasia'
This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.11+. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are rarely bolted. This 400 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, but not enough to call any routes sport. This wall has the highest concentration of classic trade routes, making it one of the more popular destinations at the leap.
Almost all of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! The Leap and especially East Wall is covered in dikes, sometimes almost half a foot wide making routes that would otherwise be difficult and very steep into exciting and wildly exposed routes that go at typically moderate grades. You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!
Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall. There is a spring running behind East Wall that has fresh clean and cold water bubbling out of the ground and running down hill alongside the trail. Please help keep this spring clean and do not use the bathroom or wash yourself off anywhere near it.
Approach: Total time: 15 minutes
From the main trail, head uphill (left at the fork just past the parking lot) about a 1/2 mile on the wide open rocky trail. As the path winds, you will see many smaller trails leading up to Lover's Leap. You should avoid the temptation of taking them,and stay on the main trail until it bends and is about 100 yards from the start of the climbing. The final path leading up to the East Face is very wide, and will take you to a side-windy uphill hike that takes less than 5 minutes from the main trail, and stays wide until just before the East Wall. This path runs you right into the start of the East Corner (5.10d).
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
32 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in East Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Wall:
East Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches
East Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Haystack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Fandango 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
The Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Fantasia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Scimitar 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Unnamed 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Labor of Love 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
East Corner 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Out to Lunge 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For East Wall
Fear No Evil 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : East Wall
1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay.2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. 3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay.4) Wander to the top.I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "...
East Wall on a sunny Winter Day. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: East Wall, Lover's Leap
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 9, 2006
and anchors are mostly bolts . . .
This is misleading. In fact, I would say most anchors are not bolts. I haven't done every route on the east wall, but I've yet to see a bolted belay anywhere at the leap.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 10, 2006
Labor of Love and Fantasia both have bolts, though I agree that what I'd written was misleading, and has been changed. Thanks for pointing that out!
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
May 17, 2008
Noted, and modified! Thanks!