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East Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Few Dollars More.  T 
Bear's Reach T 
Between the Lines T 
Deviate, The T 
Easier Said than Done T 
East Corner T 
East Corner Arete T 
East Crack T 
East Wall T 
East Wall Arete T 
End of the Line T 
Fandango T 
Fantasia T 
Far East T 
Fear No Evil T 
Fireworks T 
Flying Circus T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Haystack T 
Horn Blower T 
Labor of Love T 
Last Sandwich, The T 
Line, The T 
Out to Lunge T 
Pigs on the Wing T 
Pop Bottle T 
Preparation H T 
Psychedelic Direct T 
Psychedelic Tree T 
Scimitar T 
Showtime T 
Unnamed T,S 

East Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.8023, -120.132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 192,484
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003
This Afternoon

36° | 13°

38° | 19°

44° | 23°

44° | 28°

43° | 27°

37° | 24°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.11+. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are rarely bolted. This 400 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, but not enough to call any routes sport. This wall has the highest concentration of classic trade routes, making it one of the more popular destinations at the leap.

Almost all of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! The Leap and especially East Wall is covered in dikes, sometimes almost half a foot wide making routes that would otherwise be difficult and very steep into exciting and wildly exposed routes that go at typically moderate grades. You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!

Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall. There is a spring running behind East Wall that has fresh clean and cold water bubbling out of the ground and running down hill alongside the trail. Please help keep this spring clean and do not use the bathroom or wash yourself off anywhere near it.

Getting There 

Approach: Total time: 15 minutes

From the main trail, head uphill (left at the fork just past the parking lot) about a 1/2 mile on the wide open rocky trail. As the path winds, you will see many smaller trails leading up to Lover's Leap. You should avoid the temptation of taking them,and stay on the main trail until it bends and is about 100 yards from the start of the climbing. The final path leading up to the East Face is very wide, and will take you to a side-windy uphill hike that takes less than 5 minutes from the main trail, and stays wide until just before the East Wall. This path runs you right into the start of the East Corner (5.10d).

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Wall:
East Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bear's Reach   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Pop Bottle   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Preparation H   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 130'   
East Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Haystack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Fandango   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Fear No Evil   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches   
Fantasia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
The Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Scimitar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Psychedelic Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Unnamed   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Labor of Love   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
East Corner   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Out to Lunge   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Wall

Featured Route For East Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling over the roof of East Corner.

East Corner 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall
This is a under appreciated corner of rock that doesn't see the traffic that it deserves. The line is clean thin technical and well protected. The grade deters most people I'm sure but if you can climb 5.10a you can climb this route. The crux is a short mantle over a bulge, a two move wonder. The rest is no harder than .10a. You can easily pull on gear over the bulge if you decide you can't do it. Bring small gear. After you climb over the crux bulge/roof, continue up about 40ft and climb out of...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of East Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Dike Heaven
Dike Heaven
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "...
East Wall. left side. Climber can be seen on "...
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall on a sunny Winter Day. Photo by Blitzo.
East Wall on a sunny Winter Day. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
Unknown climbers on 'Haystack'
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful trees on top.
Beautiful trees on top.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Wall, Lover's Leap
BETA PHOTO: East Wall, Lover's Leap
Rock Climbing Photo: Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Fast, easy and beautiful walk-off...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking west frombthe bottom of East Crack
Looking west frombthe bottom of East Crack

Comments on East Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By sactownclimber
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 9, 2006
and anchors are mostly bolts . . .

This is misleading. In fact, I would say most anchors are not bolts. I haven't done every route on the east wall, but I've yet to see a bolted belay anywhere at the leap.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 10, 2006
Labor of Love and Fantasia both have bolts, though I agree that what I'd written was misleading, and has been changed. Thanks for pointing that out!
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
May 17, 2008
Noted, and modified! Thanks!

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