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The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Amputee Love T 
Buffoon T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

East Slabs 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,309
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Mar 6, 2006

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5.2 East Slab of Whale's Tail. There is a belay t...

Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is the easiest line up the Whale's Tale, providing easy access to the summit and a good view. Depending on your exact line, this route can range from 5.0 to 5.4, and is very similar to the opening pitches of the Third Flatiron. Pro is spaced in some areas, but is adequate. Think Third Flatiron.


Hike up the approach trail as if going to Wind Tower. Roughly half way up the trail there is a tree at the base of the Whale's Tail and directly above that about 90ft. is a large Juniper Tree. Climb the slab up to the Juniper tree and belay. Continue up the groove slightly to the left and follow to the top. From here you can either walk off the Northeast Arete, or rap from the anchors of West Crack.


Standard rack, bring some long slings for the Juniper tree belay.

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By Jason Gilbert
From: Lakewood
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Good, fun climb, a nice place to take a new climber or someone new to Eldo. Be carefull moving too far to the right from the Juniper tree, it makes the anchors very hard to find. Aim to the left of what looks like the summit point.
By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Nov 14, 2015

North East Gully. Probably not worth its own listing in the database but worth a mention here. I took my kids top roping here and really enjoyed it. Allowed them to get a long pitch in (~35 meters), I had to belay from the top with a 60m rope. Went at about 5.0, possibly a little harder, not 4th class though. Belay setup was on blocks at the top of the gully, bottom of start for "The Bulge". You can sling said blocks, and there are a lot of great stopper placements in the area. You will need long webbing or a static rope to cut down on the V angle. Take the Wind Tower climber's trail up.

It was great to work on communication with my kids for future multi-pitch, taking in the rope "that's me!" etc. Downside is some loose rock and poison ivy at the base of the gully that is easily avoidable.

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