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The Whale's Tail
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Amputee Love 
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Clementine 
Dihedral One 
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East Slabs 
Finger Crack 
Free Speech 
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Horangutan 
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Kid's Climb 
Left Arete 
M 
Martindale 
Monument, The 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) 
New Cambria 
No Problem 
Northeast Arete 
Second Coming 
Spoof 
Spoof Roof 
West Crack 
West Dihedral 
West Face [Whale's Tail] 
Yorkshire Ripper, The 

East Slabs 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,694
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Mar 6, 2006
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5.2 East Slab of Whale's Tail. There is a belay t...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the easiest line up the Whale's Tale, providing easy access to the summit and a good view. Depending on your exact line, this route can range from 5.0 to 5.4, and is very similar to the opening pitches of the Third Flatiron. Pro is spaced in some areas, but is adequate. Think Third Flatiron.


Location 

Hike up the approach trail as if going to Wind Tower. Roughly half way up the trail there is a tree at the base of the Whale's Tail and directly above that about 90ft. is a large Juniper Tree. Climb the slab up to the Juniper tree and belay. Continue up the groove slightly to the left and follow to the top. From here you can either walk off the Northeast Arete, or rap from the anchors of West Crack.


Protection 

Standard rack, bring some long slings for the Juniper tree belay.



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By Jason Gilbert
From: Lakewood
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

Good, fun climb, a nice place to take a new climber or someone new to Eldo. Be carefull moving too far to the right from the Juniper tree, it makes the anchors very hard to find. Aim to the left of what looks like the summit point.