|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Caelan on May 25, 2006|
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|Comments on East Slab East||Add Comment|
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By Jo Holloway
Nov 24, 2006
|This is a surprisingly difficult route to identify based on the guidebook. We had a little diversion which could best be described as east of East Slab East (oopsies) which was still a fun climb. The advice here to spot the disappearing crack should help.|
By Chris G
May 26, 2008
A bit of information about this easy climb.
Yes, the East Slab is a 5.6, as 90 percent of the people who do this direct start will confirm. However, do not be fooled into believing that this is a good first trad lead in the Boulder area to attempt.
If you are new at placing gear, mixing up crack and face climbing, or taking a few unscheduled run outs, extending draws to avoid rope drag, you'd be better served going to Eldorado and climbing the more consistent but technically harder Wind Ridge or Calypso.
With that said, this climb, now often done in one pitch with a 70m rope is on firm clean white granite and provides a varied climbing experience.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
I typically attempt to refrain from providing such comments, but, beware, if one follows the line shown in Rossiter's book, this climb is VERY run-out above the crack which peters out. It's not difficult climbing, but it is technical. I would not recommend it as a beginner lead.
East Slab is much more protected on the slab than East Slab East.