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The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.
From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.
20 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
We The People 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Woods' Cherry 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Mexican Burrito 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Flat Track 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Holy Grail 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Interfearon 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Brady's Route 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Lemon Drop 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Beowolf 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Rasta Man!! 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Simonizer 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
The Sand Dollar 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Jack Frost 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For East Side
The Sand Dollar 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c CO : Durango : ... : East Side
Climb Brady's Route through the undercling/lieback at the top of the corner. Instead of moving back left to the finishing headwall of Brady's, bust right along the prominent, arching seam. Utilize non-positive handholds and frustrating feet to get across the slightly overhanging wall. At the end of the traverse, squeeze the "Sand Dollar" crimp and deadpoint with all you've got into the vertical seam on your way to the anchors.This is definitely a major line on Lemon's E...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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