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REI Community
East Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
420 S 
Beowulf S,TR 
Brady's Route S 
Flat Track S 
Girl's Route S 
Gunslinger S 
Holy Grail S 
Interfearon S 
Jack Frost S 
Lemon Crack Climb T 
Lemon Drop S 
Mexican Burrito S 
Pyromania S 
Rasta Man!! S 
Sand Dollar, The S 
Simonizer S 
Soul Kitchen T 
Sylas S 
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam S 
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble S 
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone S 
We The People S 
Woods' Cherry S 
Unsorted Routes:

East Side Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.46507, -107.67783 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,885
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on Aug 20, 2008
This Afternoon

59° | 41°

54° | 36°

59° | 38°

61° | 41°

61° | 41°

59° | 39°
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The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There 

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Side:
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
We The People   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Interfearon   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Holy Grail   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Brady's Route   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Pyromania   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rasta Man!!   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Beowulf   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Simonizer   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
The Sand Dollar   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jack Frost   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Side

Featured Route For East Side
Rock Climbing Photo: Be sure to bring a 70 meter rope.

Interfearon 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13  CO : Durango : ... : East Side
This is a great route to the left of "Holy Grail". Starts of runout but easy slab in to a right facing corner. At the top of the corner climb steep face to large ledge. Follow small dihedral up to bolt and then climb bolted face to 2 bolt anchor at the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on East Side Add Comment
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By Cpt. E
Jul 20, 2009
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.
By Mark Boissevain
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 3, 2009
If you are camping at the CG with the intent of going climbing, does that pose an issue for the Transfer Park Management?
Any info appreciated.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2015
When the river is low, the East Side is best approached as you would for the West Side. Park at the trailhead, walk through the campground, then cross the river.

When the river is high, you probably can't easily/safely cross the river. So use the East Side approach trail. It starts from the back right side of the gravel pit. We parked there without any issues.

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