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East Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brady's Route 
Flat Track 
Girl's Route 
Holy Grail 
Jack Frost 
Lemon Drop 
Mexican Burrito 
Rasta Man!! 
Sand Dollar, The 
Soul Kitchen 
Warmup 1 aka Bam Bam 
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble 
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone 
We The People 
Woods' Cherry 
Unsorted Routes:

East Side 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: eDixon on Aug 20, 2008
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Matt P. chillin' at the rest.


The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route and Holy Grail - among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There 

From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
Warmup 3 aka Fred Flintstone   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Warmup 2 aka Barney Rubble   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
We The People   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Woods' Cherry   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mexican Burrito   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Flat Track   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Holy Grail   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Interfearon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Lemon Drop   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Brady's Route   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Rasta Man!!   5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jack Frost   5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in East Side

Featured Route For East Side
Matt P. chillin' at the rest.

Holy Grail 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  CO : Durango : ... : East Side
This is a great route that ascends the tallest section of the cliff. A 70m rope is nice to lower off from the anchor. There are two crux sections with a ledge between them to shake out. One of the best sport climbs in the Durango area....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on East Side Add Comment
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By Cpt. E
Jul 20, 2009

The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.

By Mark Boissevain
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 3, 2009

If you are camping at the CG with the intent of going climbing, does that pose an issue for the Transfer Park Management?
Any info appreciated.