Ben "Gunz" Kiessel pullin' through the p...
The east side of Lemon hosts a number of quality sport routes. The cliff starts small and increases in size as you move upstream. At the tallest section of the cliff, there are a couple of the finest climbs in the canyon - Brady's Route
and Holy Grail
- among several others. This side of the canyon gets morning shade and afternoon sun.
From the gate at the north end of the reservoir, continue straight up the rocky dirt road for about 1/4 mile to a dirt parking area on the left. Pick up a climbers trail that leads through the trees and follow it for about 15 minutes to the base of the cliff.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in East Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Side:
Interfearon 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Holy Grail 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Pyromania 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Rasta Man!! 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Beowulf 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Simonizer 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Jack Frost 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For East Side
Holy Grail 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CO
: ... : East Side
This is a great route that ascends the tallest section of the cliff. A 70m rope is nice to lower off from the anchor. There are two crux sections with a ledge between them to shake out. One of the best sport climbs in the Durango area....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Cpt. E
Jul 20, 2009
The traditional approach from the east has been altered by the presence of a gravel operation that is currently underway. The parking lot that you used to park in no longer exists. You now have to proceed another 100 yrds or so and park at the side of the road. You then basically thrash your way thru the woods, circumnavigating the gravel operation to intersect the old road that you used to walk up from the now-consumed parking lot. It's a 10-15 minute walk on a pleasant wooded trail to the east side from there.
By Mark Boissevain
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 3, 2009
If you are camping at the CG with the intent of going climbing, does that pose an issue for the Transfer Park Management?
Any info appreciated.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2015
When the river is low, the East Side is best approached as you would for the West Side. Park at the trailhead, walk through the campground, then cross the river.
When the river is high, you probably can't easily/safely cross the river. So use the East Side approach trail. It starts from the back right side of the gravel pit. We parked there without any issues.