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East Side

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(1) So Lo Wall 
(2) Windfall Wall 
(3) Hand Job Wall 
(4) Arrington Columns 
(5) Shakespeare Cliff 
(6) Midwest Wall 

East Side Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 9,457
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 26, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

43°
Friday

71° | 38°
Saturday

62° | 40°
Sunday

60° | 36°
Monday

61° | 39°
Tuesday

60° | 38°
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The forearm Berning crux

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Description 

The East side of the Lower Gorge contains a handful of basalt cliffs with plenty of worthy crack climbs. They're not quite the classics that are found on the West side and the long approach keeps away most climbers, but they're worth checking out.

Getting There 

Descend the main trail toward the river. Cross the bridge and follow a nice trail next to the river to the right. Make sure to stay near the river as alternate trails head to other areas of the park. Pass the student wall, a series of shorter columns, until you arrive at the longer columns of the lower gorge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.1 miles from here

61 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',11],['5.10',21],['5.11',16],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Side:
Mines of Moria   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch   (3) Hand Job Wall
Azog   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Othello   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Sauron   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Puck   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Hand Job   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Margo's Madness   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 65'   (2) Windfall Wall
Original Sin   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Much Ado About Nothing   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Master Looney   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   (4) Arrington Columns
Yost In Space   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Feel the Bern   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 90'   (2) Windfall Wall
Measure for Measure   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Hippo Wrestling   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Hand Job Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Side

Featured Route For East Side
Rock Climbing Photo: at a distance

Hard Attack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  OR : Smith Rock : ... : (2) Windfall Wall
A spectacular route, itself worth a trip to the Windfall Wall. Thoughtful protection and movement characterize this route, like many of the gorge 5.11s. Climb a fingers to hand crack to a stance under the roof. Skirt left into a beautiful stem box, using your lower gorge trickery to make the small features useful for protection and upward progress. When the columns end,head up and right pulling wild steep moves up the cracked headwall to reach a two bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Comments on East Side Add Comment
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By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 21, 2006
An easier way to get to the east side is to approach as for Cruel Sister and then cross the river. This works on and off throughout the year, depending on how much water is being diverted from the river. It avoids the unpleasant thrash between the So Lo and Windfall Walls.

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