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DescriptionThe East side of the Lower Gorge contains a handful of basalt cliffs with plenty of worthy crack climbs. They're not quite the classics that are found on the West side and the long approach keeps away most climbers, but they're worth checking out. Getting ThereDescend the main trail toward the river. Cross the bridge and follow a nice trail next to the river to the right. Make sure to stay near the river as alternate trails head to other areas of the park. Pass the student wall, a series of shorter columns, until you arrive at the longer columns of the lower gorge. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Side:
Midsummer Night's Scream 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Mines of Moria 5.8 R Trad, 1 pitch Hand Job Wall
Ophelia 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Othello 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Soron 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Azog 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Off Tempo 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Arrington Columns
Hand Job 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Hand Job Wall
As You Like It 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Original Sin 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Hand Job Wall
Much Ado About Nothing 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Shakespeare Cliff
Master Looney 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Arrington Columns
Featured Route For East Side
Much Ado About Nothing 5.10d OR : Smith Rock : ... : Shakespeare Cliff
Great crack climbing followed by an exciting roof make this a highly memorable climb.Start in a obvious crack just left of a flat face and right of a bolted column. Climb pleasant 5.9 hands with face holds up to a two bolt anchor with green chains...but don't stop there.Clip the anchor and work up and into the roof above. Climb a finger crack through the roof to a nice ledge above with a bolted anchor. Best to belay from above and rap off....[more] Browse More Classics in OR
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