East Side 

The rap anchor on top could use some maintenance. Right now its just two old ratty slings with a single steel locking link. Someone should take an extra triple length runner and link to fix it up. Better yet, a double bolt and chain rig would make things nice. One of the short rappels down the chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link.

As of 6/22/03, the rap anchor at the top of the pinnacle was good. There were a couple of slings, a 7mm cord, and a 11mm piece of rope (sheathed with a piece of tubular webbing). The hardware on the anchor was a quick link and a non-locking biner.

Great, varied climbing. The end of the last pitch is exposed and a bit run out, but the climbing is moderate.

One more thing... a 60M rope is just long enough to get you all the way down to where you can easily walk off. With a 50, you'd have to either downclimb a chimney section or maybe do another short rap.

Errett Allen wrote on 9/16/2002:"One of the short rappels down the [Bookmark Pinnacle] chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link."

I added a triple 1-inch webbing runner and rap ring to this anchor on 8/24/03.

It is truly a shame that this pinnacle is so shadowed by the surrounding monoliths on all sides. If this route topped the Owls or the Book it would easily be a candidate for "50 Classics".The initial pitch is great hands to fun off-fists/layback. Topping out the first pitch leaves you on a great perch. If the belay is moved left between the large flake and the main rock (after bringing up the second) it positions you directly below the steep crux crack. The gear is great and the view is better.

C.C.

Really fun route! Do yourself a favor and give this climb a try, you'll have fun. This climb offers tons of great veiws of other [Lumpy] classics. In itself this climb is a classic because there is not another climb I've done like it at [Lumpy] The exposed last pitch is wonderful and it really tops off a good day of climbing.

This is a great route; a hidden gem that should be climbed by everyone who is competent at Lumpy 5.9.

Pro: Standard rack plus doubles on #1, #2, and #3 Camalots, and a #3.5 Camalot. Bring a #4 or #4.5 Camalot if you want pro in the wide crack on the first pitch. Hybrid Aliens are useful for the flared cracks on the second-pitch summit fin.

The first pitch starts out in a right-facing corner with a hand crack. There is some grass and vegetation in the crack, but the jams are solid and the rock is good. After 50 feet, the corner dog-legs left and you are confronted with a 20'-long wide crack that goes at 5.6. I got in a marginal #4 Camalot for pro; a #4.5 would have been better. If you don't have big pro, be prepared to run it out. You can get a good #2 Camalot when the wide crack narrows at the top. After this, more great hand jams in the corner lead to a big ledge. I set up a belay and brought my partner up. We then moved the belay 30' left to the base of the second pitch. The #4 Camalot came in handy as a belay anchor here.

The second pitch starts out with an unprotected bulging face and a traverse left (protected by a #1 Camalot) to the start of the hand crack. It may also be possible to approach the crack by angling in from the left. Once at the crack, be prepared for strenuous Lumpy 5.9 hands and fist for the next 20 feet. Two #3 Camalots and a #2 Camalot are useful for pro in this crux section.At the top of the hand/fist crack, a fun and easy traverse left leads to the summit fin, a thin blade of rock that strikes directly to the summit of Bookmark Pinnacle. The climbing is a bit runout but 5.7 at most. Hybrid Aliens are useful for pro in the flaring cracks. The summit fin is exciting, airy and unlike anything else I've climbed at Lumpy.

A rappel from the summit with a 60m rope takes you to a second rap station; a second short rappel takes you to the walk-off ledge.

This is a great way to end the day after doing a longer route in the Book area.