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The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
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Crack of No Return T 
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Unsorted Routes:

East Side 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,623
Submitted By: Mark Morehouse on Mar 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Mike Borkowski nearing the top of the airy summit ...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on Bookmark Pinnacle, which is just east of the Bookmark. Follow the base of the Bookmark to the east. The route starts in the obvious right facing dihederal on the far east side of the formation. Climb the crack (5.7) up and follow it to your left until you get to a small ledge and climb a short wide section to belay on a large ledge. From the ledge head up the crack on the right side of the wall above. Reaching this crack requires an exposed traverse from the left. You wouldn't want to fall here (big ledge you just belayed on), but if you can climb the crack above you should be ok. Head up the crack. Short hard section with good hands and plenty of gear (8+). You may want to put the tape gloves on, but it's a short section. From the top of the crack head up and left into a chimney and the on to the narrow ridge of the pinnacle. Follow this to the top. Easy, but exposed climbing in a cool setting to the summit. This is a fun section and you will be on the summit by yourself (no one else will fit) with good views of climbers on the book. There aren't many summits like this around Lumpy! Rap off the backside (1 rope) and scramble around the east side to the base.


Protection 

Standard Rack plus extra pieces in the #2 & #3 Camalot Range. 2 long pitches, so bring enough gear.



Photos of East Side Slideshow Add Photo
One rope rap to the walk off. (we had a 70) or 3 shorter raps back to the base.
BETA PHOTO: One rope rap to the walk off. (we had a 70) or 3 s...
The small black dot is an unknown climber at the top of the Bookmark Pinnacle. <br /> <br />It is a very cool and exposed summit.
The small black dot is an unknown climber at the t...
Mike Borkowski jamming the hand crack near the start of the route.
Mike Borkowski jamming the hand crack near the sta...
P1 of East Side, 5.7 fun!
P1 of East Side, 5.7 fun!
Getting ready to do the crux moves on the  <br />route.
Getting ready to do the crux moves on the
route.
The first pitch of East Side, seen from near the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of East Side, seen from near the s...
Climbing the exposed summit blade.
Climbing the exposed summit blade.
Crux of 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Crux of 2nd pitch.
The first pitch of East Side.  Start up a right-facing corner with a hand crack.  Where the route changes direction, climb a 20'-long wide crack, and continue up the corner to a big ledge.
The first pitch of East Side. Start up a right-fa...
The fun first pitch crack before it heads left.
The fun first pitch crack before it heads left.
Comments on East Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Errett Allen
Sep 16, 2002

The rap anchor on top could use some maintenance. Right now its just two old ratty slings with a single steel locking link. Someone should take an extra triple length runner and link to fix it up. Better yet, a double bolt and chain rig would make things nice. One of the short rappels down the chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link.

By Brice W
Jun 23, 2003

As of 6/22/03, the rap anchor at the top of the pinnacle was good. There were a couple of slings, a 7mm cord, and a 11mm piece of rope (sheathed with a piece of tubular webbing). The hardware on the anchor was a quick link and a non-locking biner.

Great, varied climbing. The end of the last pitch is exposed and a bit run out, but the climbing is moderate.

By Brice W
Jun 23, 2003

One more thing... a 60M rope is just long enough to get you all the way down to where you can easily walk off. With a 50, you'd have to either downclimb a chimney section or maybe do another short rap.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Errett Allen wrote on 9/16/2002:"One of the short rappels down the [Bookmark Pinnacle] chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link."

I added a triple 1-inch webbing runner and rap ring to this anchor on 8/24/03.

By Colin Coulson
Apr 6, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is truly a shame that this pinnacle is so shadowed by the surrounding monoliths on all sides. If this route topped the Owls or the Book it would easily be a candidate for "50 Classics".The initial pitch is great hands to fun off-fists/layback. Topping out the first pitch leaves you on a great perch. If the belay is moved left between the large flake and the main rock (after bringing up the second) it positions you directly below the steep crux crack. The gear is great and the view is better.

C.C.

By Cale Csizmadi
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 7, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really fun route! Do yourself a favor and give this climb a try, you'll have fun. This climb offers tons of great veiws of other [Lumpy] classics. In itself this climb is a classic because there is not another climb I've done like it at [Lumpy] The exposed last pitch is wonderful and it really tops off a good day of climbing.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great route; a hidden gem that should be climbed by everyone who is competent at Lumpy 5.9.

Pro: Standard rack plus doubles on #1, #2, and #3 Camalots, and a #3.5 Camalot. Bring a #4 or #4.5 Camalot if you want pro in the wide crack on the first pitch. Hybrid Aliens are useful for the flared cracks on the second-pitch summit fin.

The first pitch starts out in a right-facing corner with a hand crack. There is some grass and vegetation in the crack, but the jams are solid and the rock is good. After 50 feet, the corner dog-legs left and you are confronted with a 20'-long wide crack that goes at 5.6. I got in a marginal #4 Camalot for pro; a #4.5 would have been better. If you don't have big pro, be prepared to run it out. You can get a good #2 Camalot when the wide crack narrows at the top. After this, more great hand jams in the corner lead to a big ledge. I set up a belay and brought my partner up. We then moved the belay 30' left to the base of the second pitch. The #4 Camalot came in handy as a belay anchor here.

The second pitch starts out with an unprotected bulging face and a traverse left (protected by a #1 Camalot) to the start of the hand crack. It may also be possible to approach the crack by angling in from the left. Once at the crack, be prepared for strenuous Lumpy 5.9 hands and fist for the next 20 feet. Two #3 Camalots and a #2 Camalot are useful for pro in this crux section.At the top of the hand/fist crack, a fun and easy traverse left leads to the summit fin, a thin blade of rock that strikes directly to the summit of Bookmark Pinnacle. The climbing is a bit runout but 5.7 at most. Hybrid Aliens are useful for pro in the flaring cracks. The summit fin is exciting, airy and unlike anything else I've climbed at Lumpy.

A rappel from the summit with a 60m rope takes you to a second rap station; a second short rappel takes you to the walk-off ledge.

This is a great way to end the day after doing a longer route in the Book area.