This boulder is on the left side of Sentinel Pass as one reaches it from Chautauqua. Leave the trail before reaching the pass and approach the boulder by hiking left for some 50 feet.
The route starts at the notch visible left of the summit of the East Boulder. As you look towards the top of the Boulder, a leaning OW/chimney crack will come into view.
Climb up to the notch and up a broken section to the base of the chimney. Place you big piece in a thin groove inside the chimney and crawl in. At the start of the chimney, a flake inside it is very tempting but is really loose, resist the temptation. The chimney is capped by a chockstone and the only way through is by tunneling left as the chimney narrows.
Descent - rappel 50 feet to the Southwest.
Standard rack, a #4 Camalot comes in really handy.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2002
This is the only squeeze chimney I have climbed in the Flatirons! Fortunately it is not hard, protectable and only about 5' long.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
The loose flake at the outside of it may go soon. Squeeze in there and avoid climbing on that!