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DescriptionThe eastern sector of Castle Rocks is a scattered, spread of monoliths, domes and faces. More of an adventure lies to those who travel here, but great climbing awaits. The closest and more recognized crag here includes the famous Comp Wall. These are some of the more stunning crags and most concentrated. The majority of this sector is comprised of smaller, less obvious, and sometimes hard to locate crags. Getting ThereThe best approach is from the Ranch House parking area. Walk along the double-track road that skirts the cattle fence. Look for signs to designated crags. Expect about a half-mile walk and don't bushwack, theres a trail for every crag. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Sector:
Handy 5.7 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Comp Rock - East Face
Vote for Pedro 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Taco
KP 109 5.8+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Tidal Wave
Mole' Problano 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet The Taco
Shop and Compare 5.10a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260 feet The Comp Wall
Sirens of Almo 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Sailor Wall
Continental Crust 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 200 feet Comp Rock - East Face
Point Break 5.10- Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Tidal Wave
Big Kahuna 5.10- Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Tidal Wave
Mantle Dynamics 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Comp Rock - East Face
Tidal Wave 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Tidal Wave
Splitter 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet The Comp Wall
Featured Route For East Sector
Splitter 5.11b ID : Castle Rocks : ... : The Comp Wall
This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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