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Eldorado Peak
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Dorado Needle SW Buttress T 
East Ridge 
NW Ice Couloir 
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East Ridge 

   
Type:  Alpine, Grade II
Original: Easy Snow [details]
FA: D. Blair, N. Grigg, A. Wilson, A. Winder - August 1933
Season: April - October
Page Views: 1,428
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on May 8, 2013

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Skinning up the Eldorado Glacier at dawn

Description 

This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite.

Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.

Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.

Location 

See the description section.

Protection 

Crampons, ice axe, pickets, glacier gear


Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending the narrow summit ridge with the view!
Descending the narrow summit ridge with the view!
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up the narrow summit ridge!
Climbing up the narrow summit ridge!
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the summit ramp
Approaching the summit ramp
Rock Climbing Photo: The view across the valley are spectacular!
The view across the valley are spectacular!
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit view
Summit view
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the summit ridge to our skis
Looking down the summit ridge to our skis
Rock Climbing Photo: View up the snowfield. The summit slope is visible...
View up the snowfield. The summit slope is visible...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just as you leave the parking lot, you need to cro...
Just as you leave the parking lot, you need to cro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great sunrise while on the route.
Great sunrise while on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben, descending from the summit across the cornice...
Ben, descending from the summit across the cornice...
Rock Climbing Photo: You will scramble up lots of boulder fields in the...
You will scramble up lots of boulder fields in the...

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