This is a popular, technically easy climb with a classic finish on an exposed summit ridge. The summit view and knife-edge top are exquisite.
Begin at the trailhead 20 miles down Cascade River Road, backtracking a few hundred feet until reaching a large, downed tree across the stream. Cross a series of logs and follow the faint trail through boulders to steeper terrain. Follow the trail to a talus field at about 4,000 feet. Head to the top of the talus field below short cliffs and head right toward another, larger talus field (snow in early season). Continue up into an open basin at 5,400 feet and head for the left ridge with a crossing at 6,000 feet and a quick descent down a 3rd class gully to the Roush Creek basin.
Head up the basin towards Eldorado Glacier, gain the glacier, and climb to where it crests over at 7,500 feet. From here, the East Ridge should be obvious. Gain the ridge and ride it to the top.
See the description section.
Crampons, ice axe, pickets, glacier gear
Skinning up the Eldorado Glacier at dawn
Climbing up the narrow summit ridge!
Great sunrise while on the route.
Approaching the summit ramp
View up the snowfield. The summit slope is visible...
The view across the valley are spectacular!
You will scramble up lots of boulder fields in the...
Just as you leave the parking lot, you need to cro...
Looking down the summit ridge to our skis
Ben, descending from the summit across the cornice...