Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 669 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | D Condit on Oct 24, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This route is two pitches up the blunt ridge that faces east on the 1st and 2nd pinnacles. It is an alternative to the first two pinnacles of the South Ridge. The first pitch is fun and interesting. The second pitch is a scary choss pile, but you can avoid it by traversing to the South Ridge.
Pitch 1 Climb above and slightly right on descent rock, past a small tree to gain a good crack. Climb the crack straight up to a sloping, loose ledge with a tree. Belay with a directional high in the tree to avoid having the rope knock rocks onto the second. The pro is the tree down low and a nut in the crack. 1.5 stars, 140 feet, 5.7R.
Pitch 2 Move the belay up about 30 feet to the large ledge prior to the obvious, vertical section. Move right and up past a small tree 10 feet above the ledge. Continue straight up on crumbling, unprotected rock to the top. The pro is the tree and a horn that may not take a fall. 0 stars, 130 feet, 5.7X.
Finish on South Ridge.
Pitch 1 Climb above and slightly right on descent rock, past a small tree to gain a good crack. Climb the crack straight up to a sloping, loose ledge with a tree. Belay with a directional high in the tree to avoid having the rope knock rocks onto the second. The pro is the tree down low and a nut in the crack. 1.5 stars, 140 feet, 5.7R.
Pitch 2 Move the belay up about 30 feet to the large ledge prior to the obvious, vertical section. Move right and up past a small tree 10 feet above the ledge. Continue straight up on crumbling, unprotected rock to the top. The pro is the tree and a horn that may not take a fall. 0 stars, 130 feet, 5.7X.
Finish on South Ridge.
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