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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.6 [details]|
|FA: || Fred Ayres and Alexander Creswell, July 24, 1953. |
|Season: ||summer, autumn|
|Submitted By: ||Andrew Carson on Aug 22, 2011|
The West Horn from the air with the route 'lined' ...
Refer to the approach information for the West Horn.
Ascend the aforementioned gully, climbing the headwall and attaining easy ground leading to the base of the upper ridge.
Start the first pitch just west of the crest. Follow the broad ridge above with many variations possible for three more pitches, mostly slabby climbing, with one small sub-tower before the last pitch to the top. This tower has an airy hand traverse along its top and is a distinctive feature of the climb.
Descent: from the summit, clamber northward a few feet on the knife edge ridge to the obvious collection of slings. Make a single rope rap to the dark gray ledge below, about 60 feet, and easily climb up left (facing in) to the next belay station, which can be spotted from the first rap anchor.
From the second station make a two-rope rap down to a big talus ledge, then do one more two rope rap to the ground.
There's evidence of many other descents but this one works and avoids diagonal raps.
Information included here for the West Horn and this particular route will be sufficient for locating the climb. The CMC approach is covered under Mt. Moran.
A small rack and lots of runners will be adequate. Include some small wires and cams to 3"
View of the approach gully.
Paul Horton leading the first pitch on the ridge p...
Paul Horton scrambling up the gray ledge to the se...