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Mount Logan
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East Ridge 

East Ridge 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c AI2-3 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10000', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c AI2-3 [details]
FA: D. Collins, C. Oullette, K. Ross, G. Roberts, D. Monk - 1957
Season: Late April - June
Page Views: 2,751
Submitted By: Josh Garner on Jun 10, 2009

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Looking back on the knife-edges at 11,700 ft

Location 

East Ridge of the Logan Massif. Andy Williams' pilot (Donjek) will land you between 6,000 and 6,500 on the Hubbard Glacier. Some parties descend the East Ridge, others try to find Prospectors Pass (get the coordinates) and descend the Kings Trench.

Description 

The East Ridge rises out of the Hubbard Glacier, beginning at approx. 7,000 ft and ending at the summit plateau around 16,000 ft. After the approach, most opt for the bergschrund-protected, 60 degree headwall on the south side of the ridge to gain the crest around 7800 ft. From there, the ridge winds its way up through a couple easy 5th class rock moves, scrambling, and exposed snow/ice climbing to 11,500 ft. Here lies the knife-edge crux ridges, which run up to 12,000-ish, consisting of exposed step-kicking (and late-season sideways ice climbing) along the south side of the ridge. Above here, the route is largely steep glacier travel, and joins up with the Hubsew Ridge around 15,000 ft. Another few 60-65 degree pitches brings you to the summit plateau (16,000 ft) where the end of the route, and the East Peak can be seen. From here, either climb the East Peak, or carry over the East Peak and tag the Main Summit, descending the Kings Trench route.

Protection 

pickets, 6 screws, and a few slings.


Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Past the crux and looking back
BETA PHOTO: Past the crux and looking back
East Ridge of Mount Logan. Topo map. Source, ACC j...
BETA PHOTO: East Ridge of Mount Logan. Topo map. Source, ACC j...
Climbing the headwall on the south side - 7,500 ft...
BETA PHOTO: Climbing the headwall on the south side - 7,500 ft...
Looking down at the junction of the Hubsew Ridge -...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the junction of the Hubsew Ridge -...
Some rock, some snow/ice at 9,000 ft on the East R...
BETA PHOTO: Some rock, some snow/ice at 9,000 ft on the East R...
Looking down the ridge at 9,000 ft
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the ridge at 9,000 ft
Mixed stuff heading up to the knife-edges
BETA PHOTO: Mixed stuff heading up to the knife-edges
Looking up the heavily-crevassed slopes above 12,0...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the heavily-crevassed slopes above 12,0...
Skiing up the Hubbard Glacier towards ABC at the f...
BETA PHOTO: Skiing up the Hubbard Glacier towards ABC at the f...
Edge of the summit plateau at 16,000 ft. The East ...
BETA PHOTO: Edge of the summit plateau at 16,000 ft. The East ...
Knife-edge crux at 11,600 ft
BETA PHOTO: Knife-edge crux at 11,600 ft

Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian in SLC
Mar 17, 2010

If you felt like you needed more than one ice axe, then it might not be WI2. AI3?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 22, 2013

Brian....thousands of feet of exposure, a big pack, traversing ("sideways ice climbing"), and mixed ground often causes one to yearn for the security of a second tool, whether technically warranted or not.