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 ADVANCED
Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
East Ridge 
Englishman's Route 
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
Slit, The T 
Tyndall Gully 
Unsorted Routes:

East Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: 
Season: October - June
Page Views: 1,769
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Nov 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: A photo of Hallett showing the gully above Emerald...

Description 

This is a fun way up Hallett, especially when covered with snow. The first section, the gully just left (south) of Emerald Lake is an enjoyable moderate snow climb or ski descent, and a good, though shorter, alternative to Flattop's famous couloirs on busy or south-facing heat-induced avalanche days.

If you decide to do the entire East Ridge, from the top of the gully head west just below the south-facing cliffs, encountering a few 4th class sections, until you get to the the middle of another snow gully (Chaos Couloir). Head up this couloir (similar climbing as the first one) and, from the top, make your way along the broad, low-angled east ridge toward the summit snowfield. Get out your ice axe again for this final short snow slope which takes you to the relatively snow-free summit.

Scramble northeast toward Tyndall Glacier and either descend that down Tyndall Gorge and back to Emerald Lake, or take the Flattop trail.

Protection 

A good solo, but can be protected with pickets and/or a light rock rack.


Photos of East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
 Ben Williams on the Chaos Canyon side of Hallett's East Ridge.
Ben Williams on the Chaos Canyon side of Hallett'...
Kurt Johnson at the start of the route in a March snowstorm.
Kurt Johnson at the start of the route in a March ...
Nancy Bell near the top of the gully above Emerald Lake, East Ridge of Hallett Peak.
Nancy Bell near the top of the gully above Emerald...
Kurt Johnson takes a short but more difficult variation near the bottom of the gully at the start of the route.
Kurt Johnson takes a short but more difficult vari...
 Nancy Bell looks up at the cliffs on the Chaos Canyon side of Hallett's East Ridge route.
Nancy Bell looks up at the cliffs on the Chaos Ca...
Ben Williams nears the base of the gully in a March whiteout.
Ben Williams nears the base of the gully in a Marc...
Nancy Bell halfway up the gully above Emerald Lake, Hallett Peak.
Nancy Bell halfway up the gully above Emerald Lake...
Ben Williams at the start of the route in a March Blizzard.
Ben Williams at the start of the route in a March ...
 Nancy Bell at the top of the gully above Emerald Lake, East Ridge of Hallett Peak.
Nancy Bell at the top of the gully above Emerald ...
Ben Williams takes a more interesting variation near the start of the route, East Ridge, Hallett Peak.
Ben Williams takes a more interesting variation ne...
 Nancy Bell on one of the trickier sections of the East Ridge route, Hallett Peak.
Nancy Bell on one of the trickier sections of the...
Ben Williams near the top of the gully above Emerald Lake, East Ridge of Hallett Peak.
Ben Williams near the top of the gully above Emera...
Nancy Bell and the upper half of Chaos Couloir which takes you to the upper section of the Hallett's East Ridge.
Nancy Bell and the upper half of Chaos Couloir whi...

Comments on East Ridge Add Comment
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By Aaron Pence
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2009

I did this route on 6/14/09 and found the bottom to be completely melted out. I climbed a snow ramp just to the right of the main gully. Where the ramp ended, the snow in the main gully began. I left the Bear Lake lot at 6am, but later wished I'd hit snooze a bit less that morning. When I reached the top of the gully, which also happens to be the steepest section, the snow was already very soft, almost too soft to ascend. The top of the gully definitely sees sun from first light, and if you're gonna do a later season ascent of this great route, start earlier than I did.

One note on rating... I found the top of the gully to be borderline moderate/steep snow. I would say it's "moderate" if you pick your line carefully and wisely, but "steep" if you head at it directly.