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The East Ridge is the area located above the Industrial Wall on the top of the Mouse Ears Crag. To approach this "complex" series of rocks, start at the mouth of the tunnel at the base of Mickey Mouse. Head north up a faint trail on the east side of the tracks that continues to the top of the ridge. From here the trail turns to the west and climbs up the ridge. There are a few cairns here and there to mark the way, but the general direction is pretty obvious. The goal to to cut back south and top out on the ridge followed by a class 4 downclimb to the base of the south side of the ridge. The best place to do this is a gully with a cairn on its west side. After the downclimb there are a couple of options depending on where one wishes to climb. To reach The Corridor, look up the hill and locate a large Douglas Fir at the mouth of a "corridor"/gully between two rock walls. Then simply scramble up there. Reaching The Garden of Stone requires that one continues southwest across the hillside to access the other side of the next ridge. Rossiter's book has a nice overhead drawing of the area on page 97 as well as some descriptions on how to get to each of these rocks. I didn't find the climbing on the East Ridge to be particularly good. However, most of the routes there seem not to be repeated too often, so there's definitely no chalk marks to "marr" the onsight attempt.
If you can't find it after all that and using a guidebook, you don't deserve to climb there. Also a quick note on climbing here during the summer (August): it's something like Tom Selleck in Hawaii...that's right, there's Magnum "P.I." Just wear long pants.
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Featured Route For East Ridge
Wargasm 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b PG13 CO : Boulder : ... : East Ridge
Wargasm is listed as a fully bolted, two pitch, 5.12 open project in the new Flatirons guidebook. We didn't free the first pitch because it was so dirty, but we are claiming the FA of the harder second pitch. Pitch 1 (5.11+?)- from a very nice alcove, climb solid but very licheny rock to a comforable ledge with a 2 bolt midway anchor. The crux of this pitch is getting past the second bolt. With a bit of scrubbing, this pitch will be worth climbing.Pitch 2 (5.12b)- from the ledge, work up a s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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