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Wedged between the Goose and Nebel Horn Ridge, the East Ridge rises in two steps separated by a gap. The lower step is the Fiddlehead. The upper step is also divided in a lower and upper section also, conveniently named by their characteristics: the Stealth Slab and the Dihedrals. The Stealth Slab contains many high quality sport routes while the Dihedrals are better visited for its mixed and trad routes. The whole of the East Ridge can be characterised by its Eldo-like sandstone (but with more pebbles it seems) and its beautiful red and green south faces.
No matter where you start, you'll be at least an hour and 1/2 on the trail before you reach the East Ridge climbing routes. Find the Fern Canyon trail from a number of trailheads (the North Shanahan seems easiest) and follow it past the Superfresh block (the obvious overhanging bolt route), which is shortly encountered after the Slab Overlook. You have a choice from here: you can take a faint trail right up into the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn Ridge which brings you past the Fiddlehead, or continue on the Fern Canyon trail to the sandy ridge top and bushwack right along the crest West of Nebel Horn Ridge. Class 3 scrambling and wonderful views of the Indian Peaks bring you to the classic serrated lines of the Upper Dihedrals.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in East Ridge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Ridge:
Stealth Slab Downclimb 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Superguide 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Fountain of Youth 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Edgemaster 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Everpresent Lane 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Lightning Bolt Arete 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Ilga Grimpeur 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Iron Cross 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Fluorescent Gray 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Kent's Krack 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Exile 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport
Featured Route For East Ridge
Fountain of Youth 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b CO : Flatirons : ... : East Ridge
If you're in the climbing game for spectacular position, good pro, and interesting climbing, then this climb is a winner. Add in the lack of crowds (or people at all), beautifully colored rock, and an abundance of good climbing near-by and this climb should be on your "someday" list. The draw backs? Seasonal wildlife closures for half the year (February 1 - July 31st typically), and an arduous approach (like 1 hour and a half with a full pack, that is if you know where to find this climb. Ex...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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