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Wedged between the Goose and Nebel Horn Ridge, the East Ridge rises in two steps separated by a gap. The lower step is the Fiddlehead. The upper step is also divided in a lower and upper section also, conveniently named by their characteristics: the Stealth Slab and the Dihedrals. The Stealth Slab contains many high quality sport routes while the Dihedrals are better visited for its mixed and trad routes. The whole of the East Ridge can be characterised by its Eldo-like sandstone (but with more pebbles it seems) and its beautiful red and green south faces.
No matter where you start, you'll be at least an hour and 1/2 on the trail before you reach the East Ridge climbing routes. Find the Fern Canyon trail from a number of trailheads (the North Shanahan seems easiest) and follow it past the Superfresh block (the obvious overhanging bolt route), which is shortly encountered after the Slab Overlook. You have a choice from here: you can take a faint trail right up into the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn Ridge which brings you past the Fiddlehead, or continue on the Fern Canyon trail to the sandy ridge top and bushwack right along the crest West of Nebel Horn Ridge. Class 3 scrambling and wonderful views of the Indian Peaks bring you to the classic serrated lines of the Upper Dihedrals.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in East Ridge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Ridge:
Fountain of Youth 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Edgemaster 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Everpresent Lane 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Lightning Bolt Arete 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Iron Cross 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Fluorescent Gray 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For East Ridge
Fluorescent Gray 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R CO : Flatirons : ... : East Ridge
This route is located just above the huge gap in the East Ridge. It follows a beautiful face just right of a jagged, left-leaning arete. Start with the burley, slightly overhanging hand and finger crack in a gully. A few 5.10 moves right off the deck lead to a thin, reachy 11b section (lower crux). Continue up to a broken ledge with a small tree below the first bolt. Gear isn't great at the ledge, I slung a horn but some tricky nut placements may also work to protect the moves up to the firs...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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