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Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.9665, -105.2894
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Shared By: Michael Walker on Oct 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Wedged between the Goose and Nebel Horn Ridge, the East Ridge rises in two steps separated by a gap. The lower step is the Fiddlehead. The upper step is also divided in a lower and upper section also, conveniently named by their characteristics: the Stealth Slab and the Dihedrals. The Stealth Slab contains many high quality sport routes while the Dihedrals are better visited for its mixed and trad routes. The whole of the East Ridge can be characterised by its Eldo-like sandstone (but with more pebbles it seems) and its beautiful red and green south faces.

The location can be very quiet, almost forgotten, and a pleasant day can be had working from the top of the ridge down or visa versa in solitude. Don't miss out on the views of the Indian Peaks from the ridge crest.

Getting There Suggest change

No matter where you start, you'll be at least an hour and 1/2 on the trail before you reach the East Ridge climbing routes. Find the Fern Canyon trail from a number of trailheads (the North Shanahan seems easiest) and follow it past the Superfresh block (the obvious overhanging bolt route), which is shortly encountered after the Slab Overlook. You have a choice from here: you can take a faint trail right up into the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn Ridge which brings you past the Fiddlehead, or continue on the Fern Canyon trail to the sandy ridge top and bushwack right along the crest West of Nebel Horn Ridge. Class 3 scrambling and wonderful views of the Indian Peaks bring you to the classic serrated lines of the Upper Dihedrals.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: East Ridge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Fountain of Youth
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Everpresent Lane
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Edgemaster
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Iron Cross
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Ilga Grimpeur
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 12
Fluorescent Gray
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 4
Exile
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fountain of Youth
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Everpresent Lane
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Edgemaster
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Iron Cross
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Ilga Grimpeur
 5
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fluorescent Gray
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber
 6
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Exile
 4
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in East Ridge »

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