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Spearhead
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East Prow 
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Ten Essentials, The 

East Prow 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Jeff Bevan
Page Views: 4,622
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jan 26, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: East Prow route. Arrows show the start and pitch ...

Description 

I almost feel bad about writing up this route as it was in virgin condition when I did it. It offers lots of climbing in the sustained 5.8-5.9 range on generally good to excellent rock and makes a great uncrowded alternative to Syke's or The Barb. Hike up to the south nose/arete of Spearhead which is fairly blunt and slabby at the start. The topo in Rossiter's guidebook is pretty much right on, but the face is a little more confusing than the topo shows in the first 2 pitches. We were using a 60m rope, so my belays were based accordingly.

P1:`Start up the most prominent, right-facing dihedral slightly left of the actual prow and about 100' left of Age Axe. It's a clean, wide crack, easy 5.6; I belayed on top of the "tooth-shaped" flake just left and slightly below the "7" on Rossiter's topo. Close to a full rope length.

P2: Continue up on slightly harder climbing to the ominous roofs above and find the easiest way through (5.8). Look for a left-facing dihedral just over the roof and continue up a ways. Rossiter shows a belay just over the roof. I belayed about 40-50 feet higher just below another small roof. About 150'.

P3: Here I think I may have been off route. From the small roof, there are 2 options; straight up and over the roof in the continuation of the dihedral which turns into a small hand/fingers crack over the roof (which "MAY" be the 5.7 way that Rossiter shows) or continue up left around the roof which turns into a very shallow left-facing dihedral that I thought was more like 5.9-. In any case, both variations merge on easy ground at the junction of the true "South Arete". Belay just below a 3" crack in a beautiful orange open book. You are now on "Age Axe".

P4: Jam and stem up the open book with excellent position, (sustained 5.8), 80-100' to a wide ledge and belay. Rossiter incorrectly shows double bolts at the right end of this ledge. They're actually at the left end. Shift the belay over to the right just below some large flakes/chimney.

P5: Climb up through the large flakes to another large ledge. A short 5.4 pitch.

P6: The business: You have 2 choices here. The crack straight above is the final pitch of Age Axe (5.10c and fairly well fixed with wireds). My partner wasn't up for that so we shifted the belay a ways right and finished up the final pitch of 3 Stoners (5.9). (The mental crux of the route was climbing across the down sloping, sidewalk wide ledge that is the common last belay for Age Axe, Stone Monkey and 3 Stoners.) The final pitch up 3 Stoners is excellent. A short 5.9 chimney leads up 20' to a point you can step right and into a perfect 5.9 finger crack. The rock here is really good! Continue up this to a final roof passed on the left and up to the descent ledge.

Descent: As mentioned by others, walk down SW (left-wards facing uphill) a long ways on a fairly open ledge/meadow. There are a few cairns. At some point you need to down climb a bit to gain the top of a long, NE facing (left; facing downhill) ramp. It's VERY easy to get cliffed-out here! Take some care to find the proper place to turn down. I don't remember there being any cairns to mark the point but there is a faint trail. The long ramp back down is a lot like the descent down Redgard and wouldn't be lot of fun in wet or icy conditions.


Protection 

Standard rack with a few extra pieces in the 3" range.



Photos of East Prow Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of the first pitch.
Looking down from the top of the first pitch.
Chandler Tompson on the 5th pitch of the East Prow - this is the 5.8 flake variation, instead of the 5.7 slot.
Chandler Tompson on the 5th pitch of the East Prow...
Comments on East Prow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Berg
Jun 15, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I could not find the way to the lower roof & ended up doing a variation to the left. Way out left is a small left facing dihedral. A horizonal break in the right facing system used on the first pitch will lead you here. This happens as you approach the roofs on the second pitch. I ventured out left looking for this variation & notice the rock to the right of the left facing dihedrial was covered with chicken heads. Instead of taking the left facing dihedral (which looked 5.8/5.9), I went up the chicken heads. Not much pro but a fun pitch that was 5.6ish. With a 60m rope, I ended up a little short of the ledge that leads right to the 5.8 pitch of Age Axe. This route is excellent. The last pitch of Three Stoners is oh so sweet. Felt a little harder than 5.9, but the altitude always does that to me. Spliter pitch. Great route that is sure to see more traffic as word gets around.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 16, 2004

See Age Axe for some photos and a description of the final 10a/b/c (take your pick) final pitch of Age Axe.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Very worthy route especially at the grade. I don't think it is as good as The Barb, so I'm only giving it two stars. It does, however, offer excellent and clean climbing in the 5.8-5.9 range. We also traversed right to finish on Three Stoners' final pitch (I would also argue that this pitch could be given a 10a rating).

By Chris Toney
From: Boulder,CO
Aug 13, 2006

Did this route today 8-12-06, The third pitch, the gorgeous open book is not a 3" crack more like 3.5 to 4". So if you think taking multiple 3 Camalots will allow you to sew it up think again, you'll need (2)#3.5 and (1)#4 Camalot if you don't want to run it out. As for the rest of the route, great climbing that sees little or no traffic at all. The 5.9 finish of Three Stoners is a good as it gets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

By Bowe Ellis
From: Taos, NM
Jun 17, 2008

The moves right around the flaring "tooth" in P1 seemed about 5.8, as described by Rossiter (his topo and description don't match). As far as I can tell this is the only option for the start of the climb. In June 2008 (snow still on the mountain) the slab below this tooth was wet from seeps.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

A single #3 Camalot and a #4 Friend are adequate for the 5.8 "fist" pitch, if you are comfortable at the grade.

By Mike A. Lewis
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2011

We did the original last pitch, the 5.10 pitch that is shared with Age Axe. There were no more fixed wires. It was sustained 5.10, exposed, and really, really good - minus the sketchy block about half way up. Pro was TCUs to #2 Camalot. There is a crack on top of the cliff that takes #0.75 to #3 Camalots for an anchor, if I remember correctly.