Doug at the stemming start of Cat Crack showing th...
This area lies above the town of Meriden. A small "Castle" (Castle Crag) sits at the summit of the peak and affords an excellent view of central CT. The road to the top is closed evenings and during the winter - check the sign at the gate and make sure you don't get locked in. When the road is closed a bit of hiking is needed to get to the crags.Most of the best crags overlook Merimere Reservoir, part of the Meriden water supply.
From Left to Right the crags are as follows:
1. Castle Crag
2. Rite of Spring
3. Dihedral Section
5. Fall Wall
6. Merimere Face
Take Exit 4 off I-691 and head southeast on Rt. 322 towards Meriden. Go about .7 mile and turn sharp left into Hubbard Park. Follow Mirror Lake Dr. around lake and past the swimming pool until it ends at Hubbard Park Dr. Turn left. Just beneath the highway overpass is a gate that closes the road to the castle at night (currently 4:45 pm) and in winter (November through April).
If gate to castle is open, note posted closing time and drive up road 3 miles (taking left fork) and park in lot by castle. Follow the blue-blazed trail east from the parking lot for 5-10 minutes. The top of the cliffs are on your right.
If the gate to castle is closed, park and walk past the gate up the road. Just as you reach the reservoir, turn left onto a gated dirt road. Follow the dirt road a couple hundred yards until it curves sharply left. Take a faint trail on the right. The trail crosses a small stream and heads up left through the woods several hundred feet to an open scree slope. Follow the trail diagonally left up through the scree to a steep, faint trail that leads to base of the cliffs near route "Shades of Grey" and "Grey Corner" (Amphitheater Area). A sketchy, loose goat trail skirts the bottom of the cliffs. Go left for Rite of Spring and Dihedral Section; go right for Fall Wall and Merimere Face.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
35 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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Thor's Hammer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CT
: Central Valley
: ... : Merimere Face
This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling ...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
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