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DescriptionThis area lies above the town of Meriden. A small "Castle" (Castle Crag) sits at the summit of the peak and affords an excellent view of central CT. The road to the top is closed evenings and during the winter - check the sign at the gate and make sure you don't get locked in. When the road is closed a bit of hiking is needed to get to the crags.Most of the best crags overlook Merimere Reservoir, part of the Meriden water supply. Getting ThereTake Exit 4 off I-691 and head southeast on Rt. 322 towards Meriden. Go about .7 mile and turn sharp left into Hubbard Park. Follow Mirror Lake Dr. around lake and past the swimming pool until it ends at Hubbard Park Dr. Turn left. Just beneath the highway overpass is a gate that closes the road to the castle at night (currently 4:45 pm) and in winter (November through April). The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Peak:
Rat Crack 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet Amphitheater
Black Corner 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Amphitheater
Squirrel Cage 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Amphitheater
Thor's Hammer 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Merimere Face
Cat Crack 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Amphitheater
Dol Guldur 5.11 PG13 Trad, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80 feet Amphitheater
Featured Route For East Peak
Thor's Hammer 5.9 CT : Central CT Traprock : ... : Merimere Face
This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling ...[more] Browse More Classics in CT
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