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East Of Wrath 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Gross, John Brewer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,692
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Apr 20, 2008
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East of Wrath

Description 

Start up "Flakes Of Wrath" move right at first horizontal then up short splitter. Climb straight up to anchor, great face climbing with good gear!


Protection 

nuts- #3 camalot



Photos of East Of Wrath Slideshow Add Photo
Where East of Wrath diverges from Flakes. Follow the horizontals straight up to the anchor 25' above this point.
Where East of Wrath diverges from Flakes. Follow t...
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By Lynn S
May 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun variation, easier than it appears from the ground. Positive holds out to the crack and then easy up to the anchor.

As you pull right to the crack, you will need a purple or green camalot. Move up to a horizontal and plug in a #3 and cruise up the to anchor. Did this again on 10/8 and in my opinion is more enjoyable than the normal Flakes finish.

By Greg D
From: Here
Jan 30, 2009

Decent route. Worth doing especially if you have been up Flakes several times, slightly easier too. Rock quality is not the greatest towards the top but gear is good.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Gotta side with Lynn on this one, I think this finish is more enjoyable than the "standard" one and its sandy smearing. Go do the original first, and then come back and enjoy this one time and time again.

By the professor
Oct 24, 2013

Upper holds are really sandy! There are also some pebbles to dislodge onto the climbers queued up at the base of Flakes. Tread carefully.