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E of East Slab East T,TR 
East Face, Far Right T 
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East of the Sun T 
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East Slab East T 
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Owl, The T 
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Umph Slot, The T 

East of the Sun 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,383
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

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Description 

Start about 75 feet up the right side of the Dome. Look for the face with several diagonal left slashes, and the three small roofs that converge about 30 feet from the side of the rock.

Pitch 1: Follow the cracks to the left. Climb over the three roofs just right of where they come together. The move over the third roof is the crux; look for a small notch to reach for with your left hand, and then bring your left foot up and smear. Move left, follow the crack up and right. Turn right around the large block past 2 old pitons. Belay at the nice chair in the corner below the chimney.

Pitch 2: Traverse right from belay station about 10 feet, and then move up the prominent crack. Onto the face, follow the crack and the small pockets up and left. Get to the large bench. You can belay from here. Crank the corner to the left side up the top via a hand jam and reaching up around the edge to the left.

Walk off.

With the longer ropes commonly used today, this can easily be done in 1 pitch.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #3 Friend.



Photos of East of the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
One more of Myke, as he starts up the last corner.
One more of Myke, as he starts up the last corner.
East of the Sun (in red), Gary Schmidt on East Slab.  Photo originally uploaded by Gary Schmidt.
BETA PHOTO: East of the Sun (in red), Gary Schmidt on East Sla...
Comments on East of the Sun Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2014
By Chris Mueller
May 30, 2002

Variation for P2. Instead of traversing right from the belay, head up and take the crack just left of the belay. Pop out of the chimney and make a few blank face moves. Head up to the slightly overhanging, right facing corner and jam through it to the summit.

By Scott Thompson
Aug 3, 2002

Question: does P2 of this route end with the East Slab crack? From the belay chair, I traversed 10 ft right and the logical finish was to jump into the East Slab crack (luckily, right where the fun climbing begins!) I looked around for another crack, but all I saw were small seams which looked pretty incipient, i.e. wouldn't take pro well. However, it seems like you could go almost anywhere, just banking on if you can get gear or not; any suggestions? P1 of East of Sun/Cozyhang is a full on one-move wonder---but definitely tricky and 7ish. Good route!

By Rob Mullen
Oct 13, 2002

Hey Scott, I think I ended up doing the same finish as you, didn't know that that was the East Slab crack though as this was my first time on the Dome. No matter what it was a blast!! I ended up going up and over the roof almost directly below the tree with the massive flake and a good right foot. You are correct where it looks like it all goes on the face, I think there was a smaller crack to the left that the actual route follows but who knows, it looked a bit shorter with a longer runout. Does anyone know where the correct P2 of this climb goes?

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2005

For those who may still be wondering I believe p2 goes as follows. From the first belay find a hand traverse crack and follow that a few feet north. Then head up the friction face(about 10 ft left of the east fact crack) with some nice finger pockets until you come to a narrow left rising ramp. Traverse left along the ramp about half way then head up the face on some smallist holds (5.7) until you gain the bigger ledge. Find the obvious crack through the overhang about 15 ft west of the East face (aka Disappearing Crack) roof and jam up the somewhat intimidating looking crack (5.7). From then head straight up to the top. Of course, variations are possible but i believe this is the standard route. Fun climb with some nice variety.

By DanMoore
Jul 24, 2005

I liked p2 quite a bit. Got in a few pieces of pro towards the start, plugged in a number 1 cam (I believe) at the left sloping ramp, and then scrambled up the slab to the top of the East Slab route. I didn't feel that slab climbing was 5.7, certainly it wasn't as hard as the crux on the first pitch. Rather than go up the fun flake at the top of the East Slab, I went up the crack to the [left]. Fun! Don't know what it was rated in Rossiter, but I've heard it was 5.7, and I'd guess it's around that level. Excellent pro and a fun problem.

By Jason Shatek
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this one on Sunday and thought that it was really good! The first pitch was easy to figure out and the description of P1 above is great. P2 was a bit more ambigious. I followed Gary's recommended line and I though it was fantastic and not too runout. I was able to place a #2 and a #1 in the horizontal crack (at my feet) before going on to the face. Also, the crack at the end is awesome, don't take the easy way out and head over to the finish for disappearing crack, you'll miss some great climbing. I would recommend being solid at the grade as you'll have to do some hunting to find your way to the top, but you can always wimp out and do the disappearing crack finish. :)

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2005

In re-reading my p2 description above, it should read follow the hand traverse a few feet east instead of north. This traverse is found a few feet below the belay. Fun climb! A number 4 cam is also comforting for the final 5.7 crack/roof thing.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Jul 11, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wow, lots of fun! If you belay from the base of the right-traversing handcrack that starts P2 and extend from the anchor, you can coach your second through the P1 crux. P2 climbs the handcrack up and right a short ways, then straight up a funky uneven crack until it ends (#8 Powercam fits here). Climb slab with pockets to the left angling crack (small cam fits here) then up more slab with smaller pockets. This pitch is completely distinct from East Slab. I've drawn the line (more or less) on a copy of Gary Schmidt's picture, showing its relation to East Slab.

By Cody Munger
From: Carson City, NV
Aug 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I totally got off route the first time I tried this and went up the chimney instead. No pro in that but way easy. Tried again with the guidebook and found the line to be directly to the left of the crack on the East Slab. I've even placed gear on this route when doing some wandering leading the East Slab. The gear looks (and is) sparse, but there's placements in all the right places. Bring a red #1 Camalot for the hole you find halfway up. The crack at the first belay station ate one of my stoppers, rapped down, jumped on it, and it wouldn't budge. All in all, this is the easiest 5.7 on the Dome but very fun, on route or lost.

By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

We did this in 1 long pitch (awesome!). Using longer slings on P1, I never felt any rope drag. Have your communication dialed as you most likely will not hear each other after the leader tops out. Medium nuts and hexes and small/medium cams work well on this one.

By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I second Matt's comment. This is an excellent route done in one (nearly full) rope length pitch with a 60 meter rope. Also, the finish is the first major crack left of the East Slab Finish. The gear is good enough in the slabby sections to prevent serious falls. I placed a pink tri-cam in one of the huecos and a tiny bd nut in the horizontal (slightly inclined) crack midway up the "second" pitch.

By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 23, 2009

P2 is described in the Rossiter guidebook as a short traverse east, a couple of moves up a left-slanting ramp, and then "tiny holds" on the face straight up to the exit roof.

Climbed the route on 3/21 with S. Costello. They are indeed small holds (mostly lichenous pockets and slopers) and there is no protection for a good 20-25 feet. It didn't look like anyone had gone that way in some time. The climbing on the East Slab crack a few feet away is better protected and, IMHO, a lot more fun.

However...the exit roof (not the East Slab flake exit) should not be missed. It involves a slightly wild move before groping for a big ole jug and is the highlight of the route.

By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hmm. I ended up climbing directly to the right of the roof and into a squeeze chimney. Was pretty fun. Strongly recommend using long slings for this route as rope drag is a pain otherwise.

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jan 22, 2012

Done in one long pitch today.

By Wayne
From: Superior, CO
May 1, 2014

WTF! I climbed this today, and when leaving the belay 'chair' after pitch 1 and starting the traverse, there are two saw marks! They form a V, slightly backcut, apparently for a small nut!