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There are 5 ice climbs in this section of S. St. Vrain Canyon that form with regularity. Two lie at about 5 1/2 miles West of Lyons off CO 7. It is a low-altitude area, so it is subject to midseason thaws similar to Clear Creek Canyon. Arguably, the most popular and commonly forming climb is the St. Vrain Falls. It is a single line climb. Another lies just upstream. These two are not ice for the hard person. Rather, they are roadside bits of ice for novices, for the exploring types, and those seeking a moderate chunk of ice to solo.
From Denver, head NW on US 36 through Boulder to Lyons. For the St. Vrain Falls, head S and then West on CO Hwy 7 at its intersection on the West side of Lyons. Drive 5.4 miles up S. St. Vrain Canyon. There is ample parking at a pullout on the North side of the road. Walk 2 minutes to the climb. For the Narrows Slab climbs, drive up to the Narrows section and find these on the north side of the road, nearly abutting the road.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain:
Vrain Strain WI5 M5 R Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 195'
Dead Men Chipping WI4+ R Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 175'
Featured Route For East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain
Road Rash WI5+ M6 CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : East of Peak to Peak - S. S...
Road Rash begins on slightly overhanging rock with natural pro to get established. Quickly the angle eases as one pulls on sketchy flakes to stand up. Once established you must surmount the lowest flake to clip the bolt in the slab above. Swing your sticks once or twice in the 1-2" ice as you work to get a stance above the bolt which should just get you to the overlap above and more pro. From here follow the left-leaning system, past a tricky layback, to anchors above and left....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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