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 ADVANCED
East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain

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Dead Men Chipping T 
Road Rash T,S 
Skidmark Left T,S 
Skidmark Right T,S 
St. Vrain Falls T 
Vrain Strain T 

East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 4, 2003
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Dougald beginning the lead in 'stubbie' territory.

Description 

There are 5 ice climbs in this section of S. St. Vrain Canyon that form with regularity. Two lie at about 5 1/2 miles West of Lyons off CO 7. It is a low-altitude area, so it is subject to midseason thaws similar to Clear Creek Canyon. Arguably, the most popular and commonly forming climb is the St. Vrain Falls. It is a single line climb. Another lies just upstream. These two are not ice for the hard person. Rather, they are roadside bits of ice for novices, for the exploring types, and those seeking a moderate chunk of ice to solo.

Three lie on the North Narrows Slab (submitted as a comment under the rock section for S. St Vrain Canyon). Now, these have been entered as ice/mixed climbs. These other form up briefly annually (according to Ryan Jennings) and may be more interesting to the harder person.

In 2007, with a healthy dump of snow & the right conditions, some tasty treats have been found in this canyon, see Deadmen Chipping & Vrain Strain.

Getting There 

From Denver, head NW on US 36 through Boulder to Lyons. For the St. Vrain Falls, head S and then West on CO Hwy 7 at its intersection on the West side of Lyons. Drive 5.4 miles up S. St. Vrain Canyon. There is ample parking at a pullout on the North side of the road. Walk 2 minutes to the climb. For the Narrows Slab climbs, drive up to the Narrows section and find these on the north side of the road, nearly abutting the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain:
Vrain Strain   WI5 M5 R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 195'   
Dead Men Chipping   WI4+ R     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 175'   
Browse More Classics in East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain

Featured Route For East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain
Skidmark Right.

Skidmark Right WI5+ M6  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : East of Peak to Peak - S. S...
Kevin Cooper, Howard Burkhardt and I put up three new ice routes on this crag this last weekend 12/1/2006. Perhaps they have been done before. If not they are now called "Skidmark Left, Skidmark Right and Road Rash". All three climb 1-2" thick ice and use existing bolts and natural protection except for Road Rash which required the addition of one bolt above a loose flake. They form most years for a few days. Skidmark Left is the black water streak of Alley Cat Street and uses this routes protecti...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain Add Comment
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By scott landers
From: boulder
Feb 2, 2007
The Vrain Falls are in good condition, and I think it's Skidmark Left looks good. I also climbed a fun roadside flow up from the Monkey Skull. With all the snow, good luck parking!