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There are 5 ice climbs in this section of S. St. Vrain Canyon that form with regularity. Two lie at about 5 1/2 miles West of Lyons off CO 7. It is a low-altitude area, so it is subject to midseason thaws similar to Clear Creek Canyon. Arguably, the most popular and commonly forming climb is the St. Vrain Falls. It is a single line climb. Another lies just upstream. These two are not ice for the hard person. Rather, they are roadside bits of ice for novices, for the exploring types, and those seeking a moderate chunk of ice to solo.
From Denver, head NW on US 36 through Boulder to Lyons. For the St. Vrain Falls, head S and then West on CO Hwy 7 at its intersection on the West side of Lyons. Drive 5.4 miles up S. St. Vrain Canyon. There is ample parking at a pullout on the North side of the road. Walk 2 minutes to the climb. For the Narrows Slab climbs, drive up to the Narrows section and find these on the north side of the road, nearly abutting the road.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain:
Vrain Strain WI5 M5 R Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 195'
Dead Men Chipping WI4+ R Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 175'
Featured Route For East of Peak to Peak - S. St. Vrain
Dead Men Chipping WI4+ R CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : East of Peak to Peak - S. S...
This is a long, fantastic pitch of thin ice that forms up infrequently. It is located in the south fork of Deadman Gulch, which is a side drainage in the lower part of South Saint Vrain Canyon, 3.6 miles up CO Hwy 7 from the west end of Lyons (0.0 mile is the intersection of US Hwy 36 and CO 7). Parking is difficult after snow storms due to the plowed snowbanks along the hwy -- if the snowbanks are gone, it's a good bet the ice is as well.When it's in, the first half is a narrow flow of 70-deg...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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