2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A small and remote crag perhaps 400 meters East of the true summit of Avalon and a few hundred feet higher in elevation. The West Face holds the only climbing on the crag and it is shaded until Mid-morning, when the southerly sun starts peeking around the corner and onto the West face, which retains light until very late in the day.
The 3 existing climbs there are all 5.7 and all on reasonably good rock and protected reasonably well. In fact, the left-most climb, and namesake route called 'East Of Eden' would be a great beginner trad lead. The view back from the crag towards Avalon is great- you will be looking at Vampire Rock, primarily, over a great stand of quaking aspens with wild strawberries for groundcover, and will more than likely be very alone....
From the summit of Avalon, above 'Crack Land' look to the East (down canyon) you will see a high point of rock with a west face that holds 3 distinct crack and corner systems and is about 50-60' tall. To approach this rock, start near Crack Land in Avalon (15 min from your car already) and walk up between Crack Land and Wizard Rock, then turn left and hold your altitude for about 10 minutes. You will pass a lot of wild strawberries (blooming now, should be ripe in 4 weeks) and then though a nice stand of aspens to the base of the rock which stands out against the skyline as you get close. The approach time from Avalon is 10-15 minutes.
More Steinbeck on the mind here, and my favorite fiction book of all time. While this climb was indeed named after a "loose" flake on it, but as it turns out it was not loose at all. In fact, after some genuine effort, it was un-freeable. We were discussing the name 'Flakes Of Wrath' but in hindsight, that name has been taken....[more]Browse More Classics in CO