A small and remote crag perhaps 400 meters East of the true summit of Avalon and a few hundred feet higher in elevation. The West Face holds the only climbing on the crag and it is shaded until Mid-morning, when the southerly sun starts peeking around the corner and onto the West face, which retains light until very late in the day.
The 3 existing climbs there are all 5.7 and all on reasonably good rock and protected reasonably well. In fact, the left-most climb, and namesake route called 'East Of Eden' would be a great beginner trad lead. The view back from the crag towards Avalon is great- you will be looking at Vampire Rock, primarily, over a great stand of quaking aspens with wild strawberries for groundcover, and will more than likely be very alone....
From the summit of Avalon, above 'Crack Land' look to the East (down canyon) you will see a high point of rock with a west face that holds 3 distinct crack and corner systems and is about 50-60' tall. To approach this rock, start near Crack Land in Avalon (15 min from your car already) and walk up between Crack Land and Wizard Rock, then turn left and hold your altitude for about 10 minutes. You will pass a lot of wild strawberries (blooming now, should be ripe in 4 weeks) and then though a nice stand of aspens to the base of the rock which stands out against the skyline as you get close. The approach time from Avalon is 10-15 minutes.
Your enjoyment of this route may depend upon your love of the wide, but it is such a mellow climb that it should be no problem where it is wide. Any difficulty would be more likely encountered at the bulge up top. Perhaps this is even a good route to introduce a climber to wide cracks on, and familiarize oneself or others with arm bars, chicken wings and knee-locks before one gets on a climb where difficulty actually requires it.Start with a hand-to-fist section, up past some wide crack in a lef...[more]Browse More Classics in CO